2. HOW TO CREATE PATTERNS FROM EXISTING CLOTHING
There are a few different methods for making your pattern. A simple knit top can be copied by tracing directly on wax paper. The “pin-through” technique works well for duplicating garments with multiple elements, such as a jacket or blouse. With jeans, I find that tracing the various pieces on silk organza works well. For whatever method you choose, here are a few tips to help you to make a pattern from a piece of clothing, and you don’t have to take it apart to do it!
The original maker of the garment matched fabric weight and type with the design, so for the best result you should also. Stretch denim results in a different fit than regular denim, so if your original garment has stretch, then the copy should as well. Both the original blue and the copy in black are stretch denims, which let me maintain the close fitting style.
As you are making your pattern pieces, add the same type of markings you find on commercial patterns. For example, note the places where seams intersect, the end points for the collar as well as the buttonhole and pocket placements. Label all your pieces, and make sure you add the grain lines.
After you trace the various pieces on a pair of pants, use the flexible ruler to recreate the curve of the seams exactly. Lay the ruler on your pattern to verify your tracing and make adjustments.
You don’t need to trace an entire jacket or blouse, so run a thread line along the centre back, creating pattern pieces you can use on the fold. It is a good idea to compare your finished pattern pieces to both sides of the garment to double check the dimensions, then make adjustments if any piece is slightly off.
First make all your pattern pieces, and then sew a muslin to test the accuracy of your pattern. If the garment you started with was not quite the right size, copy it, after which you can do the fitting adjustments on your muslin. Once you have the muslin fitting nicely, you can go back and make the adjustments for size on your pattern pieces.
Video Tutorial-