Beeton's Book of Needlework by Isabella Beeton - HTML preview

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The ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. It is embroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. Part of the embroidery pattern is given in full size. All the outlines are worked in overcast, the stitches being made rather long and slanting, and the small leaves are each composed of one stitch, as in point Russe. The leaves are alternately red and yellow upon a green stem; the scalloped outline which has no leaves is red. The pine patterns are worked in satin stitch--the centre one is green, edged with red; the side ones are pink, edged with red; the small wing-like figures are black, edged with maize; the diamond, maize, edged with black, with an outer rim of maize. In the round pattern the centre is pink; the edge red, with red and yellow leaves; the 3 outer circles are successively white, green, and red; at the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow, the side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green.

The strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk, slipped through the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined together at the side by a seam. The cover is lined with plain blue cashmere, upon which initials might be embroidered at discretion. The four corners are ornamented with pretty silk tassels, of colours to match with the embroidery. To fasten the box, sew on a blue ribbon to the cover, and one to the box.

* * * * *

 

176 _and_ 177.--_Hanging Letter Case_.

 

Materials: Crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and fine gold bouillon.

 

No. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size, No. 177 the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full size.

The letter case is composed of two parts. The larger part is 11 inches long, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with a pattern in gold soutache, and the word LETTERS or LETTRES embroidered in gold bouillon; underneath there is a pattern embroidered in oval white satin beads, edged round with fine white chenille; the scroll pattern is embroidered in gold bouillon.

The second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and forms the pocket which contains the letters. The centre flower is composed of 11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another white bead is placed in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon. The other flowers are also composed of white satin beads, edged with gold bouillon.

[Illustration: 176.--Hanging Letter Case.]

 

[Illustration: 177.--Pattern for Embroidered Letter Case.]

 

* * * * *

 

178.--_Embroidered Edging_.

 

Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24

 

[Illustration: 178.--Embroidered Edging.]

This edging is worked in broderie Anglaise or overcast stitch; the edge in scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in raised satin stitch. The stems are worked in slanting overcast stitch (No. 122, _Embroidery Instructions_).

* * * * *

 

179.--_Border in Oriental Embroidery_.

 

Materials: Purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright red, 2 shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet.

 

[Illustration: 179.--Border in Oriental Embroidery.]

The four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting colours. These ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. The outer row of the first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright red. Following the same arrangement, the second oval is of two shades of green; the third of two shades of blue; and the fourth of two shades of yellow. The knotted stitch in the centre is violet. The dots outside the ovals are worked in satin stitch, and are alternately red, yellow, violet, and blue. The stems are long stitches of black silk. The arabesque patterns between those formed of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silk of two shades of brown. The colours of the ovals may be varied as much as you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns should remain the same for the whole of the border.

* * * * *

 

180 _and_ 181.--_Embroidery Stars_.

 

Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

These stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen collars and cuffs. No. 180 is worked in successive rows of back-stitching, round an open wheel; ladder stitch (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_) is worked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms the edge.

[Illustration: 180.--Embroidery Star.]

 

* * * * *

 

[Illustration: 181.--Embroidery Star.]

 

No. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the star is filled with lace wheels.

 

* * * * *

 

182 _and_ 183.--_Key Bag_.

Materials: Grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glace silk; purse silk of 5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and silver-grey, scarlet, and white; grey silk cord; grey glace silk ribbon.

This bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. The embroidery imitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves, and stems, in the upper part of which sits an owl, "the

[Illustration: 182.--Key Bag.]

 

[Illustration: 183.--Key Bag.]

bird of night." The poppies are worked with blue-green purse silk in 5 shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown silk of 4 shades in satin stitch, the colours blending one into the other, as can be clearly seen in illustration No. 182. The eyes of the owl are embroidered in scarlet and white silk. Illustration No. 183 shows the other side of the bag, which is ornamented with steel-coloured silk applique figures, in the form of a Gothic lock. They are edged with fine grey silk cord. The screws of the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery with silver-grey silk. After having lined each part, join the two halves of the bag with a border of grey glace silk ribbon, which must, of course, continue round the revers. The bag is fastened by means of a loop and steel button.

* * * * *

 

184 _and_ 185--- _Embroidery Patterns for Trimming Cravats, Bodices, Morning Caps, &c._

 

[Illustration: 184--Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.]

 

Materials: Muslin or cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 24 for lingerie, No. 12 for couvrettes.

These patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for trimming various articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares they make pretty covers. They can also be embroidered with coloured silk, wool, or thread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming couvrettes and toilet pincushions. The patterns should be embroidered in satin stitch and edged with chain stitch; they can also be worked in button-hole stitch. When the pattern is worked on woollen material this material must be cut away inside the leaves and spots.

[Illustration: 185.--Embroidery Pattern for Cravats, &c.]

 

* * * * *

 

186 _and_ 187.--_Pen-Wiper in Cloth Applique_.

Materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small white, and 4 red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of cloth; small black beads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory handle or figure.

This pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of cloth. No. 187 is one of these circles seen in full size. There are 4 white and 4 red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. In the centre of each red circle place a white, and in the centre of each white circle a red star, and work a cross over it with small round black beads. The border, in herring-bone stitch, is worked with gold-coloured purse silk on the red, and with black on the white cloth. The centre of the pen-wiper is covered with a circle of white cloth larger than the side ones, worked in point Russe and point Mexico in black silk. When all the circles are prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth, placing alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, and between each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the edge. The work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined with black glazed calico, and a
[Illustration: 186.--Pen-wiper in Embroidery.]

small handle of carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in the centre. The circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens.

 

[Illustration: 187.--Full-sized Circle for Pen-wiper.]

 

* * * * *

 

188.--_Insertion_.

 

Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 30.

 

[Illustration: 188.--Insertion.]

The flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin stitch round an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the stars are worked in point Russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which surround each flower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished with a row of hem-stitching on each side.

* * * * *

 

189.--_Insertion_.

 

Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24.

This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch; the dots and stems should be worked first, and the leaves afterwards. It is edged on both sides with a row of hem-stitching.

[Illustration: 189.--Insertion.]

 

* * * * *

 

190.--_Cigar Case_.

 

Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk; gold thread.

The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light brown Russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in well-raised satin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter outlines shown in the illustration are worked in gold thread. The border to be worked in fine silk cord of the same colour as the leather, with a network of black purse silk, stitched with gold at all the crossings. On the opposite side of the cigar case
[Illustration: 190--Cigar Case.]

initials may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fine leather, and the mountings gilt or steel.

 

* * * * *

 

191.--_Wicker Waste Paper Basket_.

 

Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth fringe; and glazed calico.

 

[Illustration: 191.--Waste Paper Basket.]

The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern. It rests upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can be made by any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room. The trimming consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed calico, and put on round the edge; the lower part of the border is trimmed with a woollen fringe. The shades selected should correspond with the prevailing colour of the room.

* * * * *

 

[Illustration: 192.--Insertion.]

 

192.--_Insertion_.

 

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole stitch, and embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted line is worked in raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers which compose the centre wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in overcast stitch.

* * * * *

 

[Illustration: 193.--Embroidered Linen Collar.]

 

193 _and_ 194.--_Embroidered Linen Collars_.

 

Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. No. 194 is worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see Nos. 81, 82, 76, and 73 of _Embroidery Instructions_), and point d'or with white cotton, and point Russe with black silk. No. 193 is worked entirely with white cotton in button-hole, satin, knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (See Nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and 68 of _Embroidery Instructions_.)

[Illustration: 194.--Embroidered Linen Collar.]

 

* * * * *

 

[Illustration: 195--What-not in the Shape of a Hammock.]

 

195 _and_ 196.--_What-not_.

Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades of green floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of yellow floss silk; green chenille; cord and tassels.

[Illustration: 196.--Pattern for What-not (full size).]

This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant to place upon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when completed, No. 196 one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size; it is worked upon fine canvas. The violets are in floss silk of three shades of violet, with a raised spot worked in yellow silk in the centre, the leaves are worked in Berlin wool of various shades of green, and the stems in overcast of a light green shade. The pattern is grounded in tent stitch with sea-green silk. The hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece cut out in cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined and quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top with green chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the hammock is fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off with tassels.

* * * * *

 

197.--_Embroidered Handkerchief_.

 

Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a handkerchief, which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn. The design is simple, but effective, and very easy to work. If worked on fine French cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly tacked upon _toile ciree_. The rows of raised dots should be worked first, and then the graceful branches of pointed leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots might be worked in bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. To produce a good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40 will be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourning wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or the leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in filoselle.

[Illustration: 197.--Handkerchief Border.] * * * * *

 

198 _and_ 199.--_Two Medallions for a Purse in Embroidery_.

 

Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk; steel or gold clasp.

 

These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may be employed on a variety of articles.

 

[Illustration: 198.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.]

 

[Illustration: 199.--Medallion for a Purse in Embroidery.]

The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satin stitch, the branched sprays in point Russe in scarlet and gold, the four largest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk. Medallion No. 199 is worked entirely in point Russe, and may be embroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, or scarlet and black.

* * * * *

 

200.--_Work-Bag_.

Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours; embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; red cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather.

[Illustration: 200.--Work Bag.]

This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The outside consists of drab cloth, trimmed with applique embroidery. The inside of the bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted in diamonds. The seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strap completes the whole. Cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut the satin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. After having traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces of coloured cloth in applique embroidery. The different figures are sewn over the centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches, with embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in chain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge must be bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. The ends of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded and lined with red satin; the outside worked in applique embroidery like the rest of the bag. All the seams are covered with red silk cord. The straps are fastened with a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.

* * * * * 201 _to_ 203.--_Pattern for Braces_.

 

Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico.

 

[Illustration: 201.--Pattern for Braces (full size).]

These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico ornamented with embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side with loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes in red wool. Illustration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. Work first the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; work loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the cross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on the tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter are then edged with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. The vandykes are worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole stitch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next button-hole stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole stitch, repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No. 203 shows another

[Illustration: 102.--Embroidered Braces.]

way of working these braces on fine ribbed pique. Work any Berlin wool work pattern in the common cross stitch over the ribs of the pique. For the vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double divided by 3 chain stitches.

[Illustration: 203.--Pattern for Braces (Full size).]

 

* * * * *

 

204.--_Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk_.

 

Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silver brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread.

This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and gold thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. The dark patterns are worked in applique with black velvet, the two other shades in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is worked in satin stitch with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. The border can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is not intended to contrast with it. The pattern can also be worked entirely in silk with satin stitch. The size of the border may, of course, be increased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must, in any case, form the centre of it.
[Illustration: 204.--Embroidery Border for a Reading Desk.]

* * * * *

 

[Illustration: 205.--Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery.]

 

205.--_Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery._

 

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 6 and No. 12; net and muslin.

The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked over net. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the veinings are sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cut away all round the pattern.

* * * * *

 

206.--_Venetian Border._

 

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 12 and No. 16; net and muslin.

 

[Illustration: 206.--Venetian Border.]

This design is elegant and effective, without there being a great deal of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening dresses or handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over, and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the ground work.

[Illustration: 207.--Lace Insertion.]

 

* * * * *

 

_207.--Lace Insertion._

 

Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net.

This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the net; the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked in overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circle previously outlined; the lace stitches in the centre are formed by gently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewn lightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace stitches consisting of fine button-hole stitches, very evenly worked over the entire space surrounding the open holes.

To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. This pattern may be worked in applique by placing muslin over net, sewing all the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when finished, carefully cutting away the muslin.

* * * * *

 

208 _and_ 209.--_Slipper on Java Canvas._

Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle and purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; some wadding; 2 cork soles.

[Illustration: 208.--Slipper on Java Canvas.]

This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of light brown Java canvas, and embroidered in point Russe with green filoselle. It is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. The soles are of cork. The slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is turned down inside. No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitch nearly full size.

[Illustration: 209.--Point Russe Stitch for Slipper (No. 208)]

 

* * * * *

 

210 _and_ 211.--_Medallions in Point Russe_.

 

Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk.

These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers, cushions, borders, &c. They are worked with coloured filoselle in point Russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted stitch, on cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of both medallions contrasts with the colour of the ground, and must therefore be worked in applique on the latter with herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border. The wreath on No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which imitate small blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is left to the personal taste of the worker.

[Illustration: 210.--Medallion in Point Russe.]

 

[Illustration: 211.--Medallion in Point Russe.]

 

* * * * *

 

212.--_Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner_.

 

Materials: French lawn or cambric; fine black silk.

This butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in order more closely to imitate etching. It is worked in point Russe and scallop stitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in button-hole scallop stitch, the stitches being taken very closely together, but not raised by the usual method of placing chain stitches beneath the button-hole stitches. The outlines and flowers are worked in point Russe, the dot in knotted stitch (see No. 73, _Embroidery Instructions_.)

[Illustration: 212.--Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner.]

 

The initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch, and should be worked with great regularity.

 

* * * * *

 

213 _to_ 215.--_Pattern for a Couvrette in Applique_. (_see pages 576-7_.)

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 24 and 30; cambric muslin; Brussels net; flesh-coloured silk; sewing silk of the same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue silk; brown silk; gold thread.

This style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed covers. It is worked in cambric muslin and silk, over Brussels net.

The arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the outlines are embroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away all round. The medallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon them are cut out of flesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon tissue-paper, then upon the blue silk; the figures are further fastened upon the medallions in overcast stitch with fine silk of a rather darker shade of flesh-colour. The scarfs are cut out of bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver and arrows and all the other attributes are worked in gold thread; the hair in fine brown silk. The edge of the blue silk medallions is worked round in button-hole stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when the couvrette has to be cleaned. A border in open ladder stitch is worked round them (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_). The openings in the centre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches.

* * * * *

 

CROCHET

 

INSTRUCTIONS. [Illustration: A Crochet-Needle]

Cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the materials required for working crochet. The needle, whether it be steel or bone, must be smoothly polished. The long wooden and bone crochet-needles are used for wool; for cotton and silk work short steel needles screwed into a bone handle are best. The beauty of the crochet-work depends upon the regularity of the stitches, as is the case with every other style of needlework. The stitches must be elastic, but if too loose they look as bad as if too tight. The size of the needle and that of the cotton or wool must correspond; work only with the point of the needle, and never move the stitch up and down the needle. The cotton with which you work must be of the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes, imitation of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes, counterpanes, covers, &c., use knitting-cotton. All crochet-work patterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds of foundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and the purl foundation chain.

The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.

 

[Illustration: 216.--Plain Foundation Chain.]

ILLUSTRATION 216.--Form a loop with the cotton or other material with which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. The crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made, take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop.

[Illustration: 217.--Double Foundation Chain.]

ILLUSTRATION 217 (_The Double Foundation Chain_).--Crochet 2 chain stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation chain is long enough.

[Illustration: 218.--Purl Foundation Chain.]

ILLUSTRATION 218 (_Purl Foundation Chain_).--* Crochet 4 chain stitch, then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle, and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they are all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216), and take it on the needle.

[Illustration: 219.--Slip Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 219 (_Slip Stitch_).--Draw the needle through the back part of a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through the back part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. The illustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is left quite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch.

[Illustration: 220.--Double Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 220 (_Double Stitch_).--These are worked nearly like the preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of a stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the two loops on the needle.

[Illustration: 221.--Double Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like the preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in the following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch of the preceding row.

[Illustration: 222.--Ribbed Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 222 (_The Ribbed Stitch_).--This stitch is worked backwards and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together, which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back part of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is not worked, however, in the following row.

[Illustration: 223.--Slanting Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 223 (_Slanting Stitch, double stitch_).--This stitch is worked like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round the needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch.

[Illustration: 224.--Cross Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 224 (_Cross Stitch_).--This stitch is worked like No. 223 on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the two upper sides of a stitch.

[Illustration 225:--Long Double Stitch.]

Illustration 225 (_Long Double_).--For this stitch wind the cotton round the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round the needle.

[Illustration 226.--Treble Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 226 (_Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are worked as has been described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treble stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the preceding row.

ILLUSTRATION 227 (_Long Treble_).--These are worked like treble stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the double long treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton three times round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round the needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the cotton round the needle.

[Illustration: 227.--Long Treble Stitch.]

 

[Illustration: 228.--Double Long Treble Stitch.] [Illustration: 229.--Cross Treble Stitch.]

 

[Illustration: 230.--Cross Treble Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (_Cross Treble_).--Illustration 229 shows this stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course of the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble, insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the 2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the third stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2 loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting, work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown by the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble stitch.

[Illustration: 231.--Cross Treble Stitch.]

 

[Illustration: 232.--Raised Spots.]

ILLUSTRATION 232 (_Raised Spots_).--The grounding on which these spots are worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows of the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being placed between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of double stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as follows:--1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see
illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row.

[Illustration: 233.--Hollow Spots.]

ILLUSTRATION 233 (_Hollow Spots_).--The ground is worked in double crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist of 5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5 stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5 treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1 stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the spot.

[Illustration: 234.--Open-work Spots.]

ILLUSTRATION 234 (_Open-work Spots_).--These spots are treble stitches divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they are worked like the raised spots (illustration 232).

[Illustration: 235.--Raised Treble Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 235 (_Raised Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are long treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on the same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch of the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a row in ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the treble stitches begin only in the 4th row.

[Illustration: 236.--Purl Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 236 (_Purl Stitch_).--These purl stitches imitate a lace edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.

[Illustration: 237.--Purl Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 237 (_Purl Stitch turned upwards_).--Work 1 treble, then 7 chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3, missing 3 stitches under it.
[Illustration: 238.--Purl Stitch.]

ILLUSTRATION 238 (_Purl Stitch turned downwards_).--The chain stitches form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through the loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needle and cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purl stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances.

* * * * *

 

CROCHET PATTERNS.

 

239.--_Small Crochet Basket_.

 

Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.

 

[Illustration: 239.--Small Crochet Basket.]

 

For the bottom: Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3 chain, and repeat three times more.

2nd round: Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place, make 3 chain, and repeat.

3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last round.

 

4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by working twice into it.

 

5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.

 

For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine.

2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1 chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch alternately.

3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way, then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in length, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted over wire.

* * * * *

 

240 to 243.--_Couvrette in Crochet_.

 

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 10, and steel crochet needle.

This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles representing dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242 shows one of these large circles in full size, No. 241 one of the small circles placed in the spaces between the larger ones, No. 243 part of the border, and No. 240 the couvrette when completed, but in reduced size.

For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it into a circle.

 

1st round: 30 stitches of double crochet over the circle of chain stitches.

 

2nd round: 36 stitches of double crochet.

 

3rd round: 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1. 4th round:

 

[Illustration: 240.--Couvrette in Crochet.]

 

The same as the preceding--the 1 double always on the 3rd chain.

 

5th round: Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the centre stitch of each loop.

6th to 12th round: The same as the 5th, close double crochet, increasing in the centre of each small scallop, which forms the 18 raised petals of the dahlia.

13th round: Here begins the open-work border round the dahlia. Work 1 double between 2 petals, taking together the 2 centre stitches, 1 double in the next, 5 chain. There will be 18 loops of 5 chain in the round.

14th to 17th round: 1 double in centre of each loop, 5 chain between.
18th round: 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1 treble in next loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3 double, with 3 chain between each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same all round, and the large circle is completed. Six of these are required.

[Illustration: 241.--Showing one of the small Circles full size of No. 240.]
For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it into a round.

1st round: 16 stitches of close double crochet.

 

2nd round: 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times.

3rd round: 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double between. This completes 1 of the 6 small circles placed round the large ones in the centre of the couvrette. The 6 that are placed between the 5 other large circles have 1 more round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in the centre of 1 scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3 chain between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round.

[Illustration: 242.--Showing one of the large Circles full size of No. 240.]

 

When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen in illustration 217, and work the border as follows:--

1st round: 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a small circle, 8 chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble in 3rd trefoil, 8 chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1 long treble in 1 trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the 4 next trefoils of the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain, 1 long treble in the last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain. Repeat all round.

2nd round: 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first stitch of last round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain between next stitch. Repeat from *.

3rd and 4th rounds: The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble always in 1 chain.

 

5th round: In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain between the 2nd and 3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all round.

 

6th round: The same as the 5th.

 

7th round: 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of the treble, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the couvrette.

 

[Illustration: 243.--Border for Couvrette.]

 

* * * * *

 

244.--_Star in Crochet_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 80, or with No. 8 or 10 for couvrettes.
A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty strips of insertion. For this purpose they should be worked with fine cotton. They may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and cravats, the material being cut away underneath. If worked with crochet cotton No. 8 or 10, they will make nice couvrettes, bed-quilts, &c.

[Illustration: 244.--Star in Crochet.]

The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70 stitches, and join it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work 1 extra long treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle under the chain, then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2 extra long double, miss 4, and work 1 double, inserting the needle _under_ the 5th. Repeat 13 times from * Fasten off, and for the centre of the star work as follows:--

1st round: * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double in the next 7 chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus forming 1 loop. Repeat from * 5 times more.

2nd round: 12 double on the first loop of chain of the first branch, 1 double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip the stitch which is upon the needle in one of the stitches of the foundation chain of the outer circle, work 1 double in the first of the 2 chain last made, then 12 double in the remaining loop of chain of the branch, and 1 double at the bottom of the branch. Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre star must be joined on to the outer circle at regular distances.

* * * * *

 

245.--_Crochet Silk Bag over Rings_.

Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left; rings.

Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ring and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring, and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the other 5 in the same way.

[Illustration: 245.--Crochet Silk Bag.]

For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4 long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2 chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12 rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the lower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st round: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that is remaining after working the crochet.

* * * * *

 

246.--_Crochet Sovereign Purse._

 

Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few steel beads; and a steel clasp.

The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when required.

[Illustration: 446.--Crochet Sovereign Purse.]

The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the _upper_ side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with beads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without the least difficulty from the illustration.

* * * * * 247.--_Stars in Crochet_.

 

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8 or 20.

 

This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.

Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1st stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch, repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8 chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work (without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the centre.

1st branch.--1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2 stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18 chain.

2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the second branch.

1st round of the 2nd leaf: 22 chain, 1 double in the last so as to form a circle.

 

[Illustration: 247.--Stars in Crochet.]

2nd round: 1 double in each of the 10 first chain, in the next stitch work 1 double, 1 chain, 1 double to form the point, 1 double in each of the 10 remaining stitches, 1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the 1st round.

3rd round: 3 double, 1 purl, repeat from * twice more, then work in double crochet as far as the point, work 2 double with 1 chain between, then work the 2nd half of the branch the same as the 1st. Before beginning the next leaf, work 5 double on the chain stitches of the circle; work 6 branches, repeating alternately the 2 above explained; cut the cotton and fasten it on again to the point of one of the branches, in order to join them together by the two following rounds:--

1st round: 1 double in the point of one of the leaves, * 4 chain, 1 purl under the chain; thus make 5 chain, turn the chain with the crochet to the right, insert the needle downwards in the first chain, and make a slip stitch, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 purl under, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the point of the next leaf, repeat from * five times more.

2nd round: * 4 double over the nearest 4 chain; 1 purl as usual--that is, above the chain--4 double over the next 4 chain. Now work 1 trefoil (thus: 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the 1 double coming just before the 3 purl). 1 double on each of the next 4 chain of last round, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 trefoil, repeat five times from *.

Join the stars by a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.

 

* * * * *

 

248.--_Crochet Purse over Rings._

 

Materials: 67 rings; 2 skeins each of cerise and black, and 1 of maize coarse purse silk.

 

Work in double crochet with maize over one ring 38 stitches; this is the centre ring for the bottom of the purse.

 

[Illustration: 248.--Crochet Purse over Rings.]

Then work with cerise colour over a ring 19 stitches, take another ring and work 19 stitches, repeat this till you have 6 rings, then work round the other half of each ring 19 stitches; and when the 6 are finished, join the first to the last to make a circle; sew the maize ring into the centre of it, then work over 12 rings with black in the same manner, and place them outside the cerise circle. Then work over 16 rings with maize colour, and join them beyond the black, but not to lie flat down; they are to stand up to form the sides of the purse. Work over 16 rings with cerise, and these you can join one to each of the former rounds in working the second half of the crochet, as it will save the sewing. Work over 16 rings in black, and join them in the same manner to the cerise. For the edge, with cerise, work into the centre stitch of the ring a stitch of double crochet, make 5 chain, work into the stitch joining the 8 rings an extra long stitch, make 5 chain, repeat. Then work 4 rounds of single open crochet.

6th round: * Work a stitch of double crochet and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each 4 times, then work a long stitch, make 1 chain, work into the next loop 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a long stitch into the next loop, repeat from *.

7th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 1 chain, * work a stitch of double crochet into the next 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning.

8th round: Join the black, work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work a 4th long stitch into the same place, * make 1 chain, work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, miss the next 2 stitches of double crochet, * work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, repeat from * 3 times more, then repeat from the beginning.

9th round: Work into the 2 chain 1 long stitch, make 2 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, repeat the stitches of double crochet with 1 chain between, as in last round, then repeat from the beginning. 10th and 11th rounds the same as the 9th. Add a tassel at the bottom, and strings run into the last row of open crochet complete the purse.

* * * * *

 

[Illustration: 249.--Crochet Brioche Cushion.]

 

249.--_Crochet Brioche Cushion_.

Materials: 10 skeins of 12-thread fleecy, of six shades of red (these should be most of the darker shades); 2 skeins of white ditto; 1 skein of white filoselle.

Make a chain of 196 stitches with the darkest shade of red wool, and join it into a circle. Work 1 round of raised spots thus:--Turn the wool 5 times round the needle, insert the needle in 1 chain, and draw it through all the loops, then work 1 slip stitch, insert the needle in the next stitch, work 1 double, and begin a fresh spot. Continue in the same way all round.

2nd round: Divide the round into 7 parts; work 12 spots with the 3rd shade of red, always working 1 double between each spot, and taking care to place them between those of preceding round: after 12 spots, work 1 double, then 12 more, and so on.

3rd round: 3rd shade of red, 11 spots, 1 double.

 

4th round: 4th shade, 10 spots, 3 double.

 

5th round: 5th shade, 9 spots, 5 double.

 

6th round: Same shade, 8 spots, 7 double.

 

7th round: 5th shade, 7 spots, 9 double. 8th round: Same shade, 6 spots, 11 double.

 

9th round: Same shade, 5 spots, 13 double.

 

10th round: 6th shade, 4 spots, 15 double.

 

11th round: Same shade, 3 spots, 17 double.

 

12th round: Same shade, 2 spots, 19 double.

13th round: Same shade, 1 spot, 21 double. The pattern of raised spots being now completed, continue to work with the lightest shade of red in double stitches, decreasing once above each pattern, so as to close up the circle gradually. The white flowers are worked over the plain part of the cushion with white wool, and silk for the petals, and a black dot in the centre. The cushion is stuffed with horsehair and lined with glazed calico. A round of thick pasteboard is stitched in at the bottom, to make it stand firmer.

* * * * *

 

_250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette._

Materials: For a large couvrette, Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 8; for pincushion covers, mats, and such-like small articles, Boar's Head cotton No. 16 or 20.

A pattern of this description is most useful, as it can be converted to so many purposes. Counterpanes, couvrettes of every description, mats, pincushions, and a thousand other things can all be arranged from the design.

[Illustration: 250.--Daisy Pattern for a Crochet Couvrette.]

Each circle is made separately, and joined to the others, as the last row is crocheted. Begin in the centre; make 8 chain, insert the needle in the first, and make * a long treble stitch, then make 3 chain, repeat 4 times from *, always inserting the needle in the 1st chain stitch, join the last chain to the 5th of the 1st 8 chain to close the round.

2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, * 9 chain, turn, work a slip stitch in each of the 9 chain; work round the stem thus made in close crochet, working 3 stitches in 1 to turn at the point; miss 1 stitch of preceding row, work 2 double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more, making 6 petals in all.

3rd round: Work at the back of the last row, behind the petals; make 1 petal between each petal in last row, 1 double crochet at the back of each, and cut the cotton at the end of the round. 4th round: 2 double crochet at the point of each of the 12 petals, 5 chain between each petal.

 

5th round: 2 treble, 5 chain, repeat.

6th and last round: 1 double crochet in the centre of the 1st 5 chain, *
5 chain, 1 treble in the centre of the next 5 chain, 5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the top of the treble stitch, 6 chain, 1 slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, a 3rd slip stitch in the same place, 5 chain, 1 double crochet in the centre of the next 5 chain, repeat from * to the end of the round. There should be 12 trefoil patterns in the round.

For the couvrette join the circles together, as shown in illustration, in working the last round. As many circles can be added as may be required for the couvrette.

* * * * *

 

251.--_Crochet Lace_.

 

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 40 or 60.

This lace produces a very good effect when worked with fine cotton. Make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row entirely in double stitch.

2nd row: * 1 treble in the next stitch, 1 chain, miss 1 stitch under it; repeat from *.

3rd row: 1 long treble in the 3rd stitch of the preceding row, * 3 purl (each consisting of 5 chain, 1 double, in the 1st of the same), 1 long treble in the same stitch of the preceding row, 1 purl, miss 3, 3 double in the 3 following stitches, 1 purl, miss 3 stitches, 1 long treble in the 4th stitch; repeat from *.

[Illustration: 251.--Crochet Lace.]

4th row: * 3 double in the middle of the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 long treble divided by 3 purl in the middle of the 3 next double in the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *.

5th row: * 2 long treble, divided by 3 purl in the middle of the next 3 double of the preceding row, 1 purl, 3 double in the middle of the next
3 purl of the preceding row, 1 purl; repeat from *. Repeat the 4th and
5th rows alternately till the border is wide enough.

* * * * * 252.--_Crochet Border_.

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 12, 16, 24, or 40.

 

[Illustration: 252.--Crochet Border.]

This border is suitable for a great variety of purposes, according to the size of the cotton employed; in coarse cotton it will make a trimming for couvrettes and berceaunette covers; with fine cotton it can be used for children's clothes, small curtains, &c. Make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row: * 2 treble divided by 3 chain in the 1st foundation chain stitch, miss 3; repeat from *.

2nd row: * In the 1st scallop of the preceding row, 1 double, 5 treble,
1 double, then 1 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the four), 1 chain, miss under these the next chain stitch scallop; repeat from *.

3rd row: 1 treble in the chain stitch on either side of the purl in the preceding row, 5 chain.

4th row: * 2 double divided by 7 chain in the two first treble of the preceding row (insert the needle underneath the upper parts of the stitch), 10 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 5th of these 10 stitches so as to form a loop, 4 chain, repeat from *.

5th row: * 1 slip in the middle stitch of the scallop formed by 7 chain in the preceding row, 4 treble, 3 chain, 5 treble, 3 chain, 4 treble, all these 13 stitches in the loop of the preceding row, so as to form a clover-leaf pattern; repeat from *, but fasten the 4th treble with a slip stitch on the 10th treble of the preceding figure.

6th row: In the first and last stitch of the 5 middle treble of the clover-leaf 1 double, 7 chain between, 7th row: * 1 double in the 2nd chain stitch of the scallop which is above the 5 middle treble of the clover-leaf, 2 chain, 1 purl (5 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch of the same scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, miss one chain of the scallop, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain stitch, 3 chain. 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop, 3 chain, repeat from *.

* * * * *

 

[Illustration: 253.--Crochet Border.]

 

253--_Crochet Border_

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 24, 40, or 60, according to the article for which it is required.
On a sufficiently long foundation chain work the 1st row: 1 double in each chain stitch.

2nd row: Alternately 1 double, 7 chain, miss under the latter 3 stitches of the preceding row.

 

3rd row: 1 treble in each double of the preceding row, 1 double in the middle stitch of each scallop, 2 chain between.

 

4th row: 1 double on each double of the preceding row, 1 treble on each treble, 3 chain between.

 

5th row: 1 double on each treble of the preceding row, 3 chain between.

 

6th row: 1 double in each stitch of the preceding row.

7th row: * 1 treble in the 1st stitch of the preceding row, 4 chain, miss 1, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, miss 3 stitches, 3 treble in the following 3 stitches, 4 chain, miss 1 stitch, 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 4; repeat from *.

8th row: Repeat regularly 8 treble in the scallop formed of 4 chain in the preceding row, 1 double in the middle of the following 3 chain.

9th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 treble, 1 long treble in next treble but 2, 2 long treble in each of the 2 following treble, 1 long treble, 2 treble in the next treble, 1 double in the next treble but 2, 3 chain, 1 purl (4 chain, 1 slip), 3 chain stitch; repeat from *.

10th row: * 1 double in the 4th treble of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, miss 2 under them, 1 double, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the next chain but 1 of the next scallop, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 double in the 2 chain stitch after the purl of the preceding row, 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain; repeat from *.

11th row: In each scallop of the preceding row 2 double (they must meet on either side of the purl); they are divided alternately by 5 chain, and by a scallop formed of 2 chain, 1 purl, and 2 chain, only in the chain stitch scallops which join the two treble figures work no double, but 2 chain, 1 purl, 2 chain.

* * * * *

 

_254 to 257.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet._

 

Material: Berlin wool in two colours.

[Illustration: 254.--Wicker Arm Chair, covered with Crochet.] The seat and back of this arm-chair are covered with two round couvrettes, worked in crochet with Berlin wool of two colours. They are fastened on the chair with woollen braid, finishing off with tassels of the same colour. Begin each couvrette in the centre with a foundation chain of 6 stitches, with the lightest wool; join them into a circle, and work the 1st round in the following manner:--12 double.

2nd round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next stitch of the 1st round, inserting the needle in the upper part of the stitch; repeat from * 11 times more; at the end of this round work 1 slip stitch in the 1st chain of this round. We shall not repeat any more the repetitions from * to the end of the round.

3rd round: * 4 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding round; at the end of the round 4 chain.

 

4th round: 4 double in each scallop of the preceding round.

5th round: Begin to work with the darker wool and crochet slip stitch, inserting the needle in the front chain of the stitches of the 4th round.

The 6th round is worked once more with light wool, and consists entirely of double stitch, worked by inserting the needle at the back of the stitches of the 4th round, so that the slip stitches appear raised on the right side of the work, and form a round of chain stitches. The middle part of the couvrette is then finished.

[Illustration: 255.--Pattern for Arm Chair Border.]

 

[Illustration: 256.--Border for Arm Chair (254).]

 

Illustration 257 shows it in full size.

 

7th round: * 2 chain, missing 1 stitch of the preceding round under them, 1 double.

 

8th round: * 3 chain, 1 double, in the next scallop of the preceding round.

 

9th round: 3 double in each scallop.

 

10th round, like the 5th;

 

11th round, like the 6th;

 

[Illustration: 257.--Couvrette for Arm Chair (254).]

 

12th, 13th, 14th, 15th, and 16th rounds, like the 7th--11th; 17th--19th rounds like the 7th--9th.

20th round: Alternately 1 treble with the light wool, 1 treble with the dark; but every treble stitch must be cast off with the wool of the colour of the next stitch; that is, a light treble stitch with the dark wool, and a dark treble stitch with the light wool. Now and then crochet 2 treble stitches in one stitch of the preceding round, so that the couvrette remains perfectly flat.

21st round: 1 double in every stitch.

 

The 22nd--31st rounds consist of a double repetition of the 7th--11th rounds.

 

The 32nd and 33rd rounds are made in open work like the 7th and 8th rounds.

The 34th round is worked in treble stitches like the 20th round. Then work the outer border. It consists of chain stitch scallops which are worked alternately with dark and light wool. Illustration No. 256 shows a part of the border with the treble round in full size. Work from it with the light wool 1 double on 1 light treble stitch of the preceding round, 5 chain, 1 double, on the next light treble, throw the wool off the needle and let it hang over the right side of the work; crochet with the dark wool 1 double on the treble stitch between the 2 double of this round, leave the wool on the right side of the work; 5 chain, 1 double, on the next dark treble. Take the needle again out of the loop, draw the wool on to the right side, and work the next chain stitch scallop again with the light wool.

Instead of this border, pattern No. 255 may be worked. It consists of 3 rounds to be worked after the 34th round of the couvrette.

1st round of the border: With dark wool, * 1 double in 1 stitch, of the
34th round; 1 double, 3 treble, 1 double, in the next stitch; repeat from *.

2nd round: With the light wool, * 1 treble, inserting the needle in the next treble stitch of the 34th round, thus working over the double stitch between the spots of the preceding round; 1 chain.

3rd round * 3 double in each chain stitch of the preceding round. To work the 2nd of these 3 double, insert the needle at the same time in the upper part of the middle treble of the 1st round.

4th round: Dark wool, * 1 double in each double of the preceding round, miss 1, and work 3 treble in the next stitch but one; the last of these
3 treble is cast off with light wool, miss 1, and continue to work with the light wool 1 double in the next stitch but one, miss 1, 3 treble in the next stitch, cast off the last with the dark wool, miss 1; repeat from *.

* * * * *

 

_258 to 260.--Crochet Insertions._

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30, 40, or 60.

 

[Illustration: 258.--Crochet Insertion.]

These insertions are worked with crochet cotton of sizes which depend upon the use you wish to make of them. The insertion seen in illustration 258 is worked the long way in 8 rows. Make a sufficiently long foundation chain, and work the 1st row as follows:--1 slip stitch in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 5 chain, miss 3, 1 double in the next stitch but 3, repeat from *.

2nd row: 1 slip stitch in the middle of the 1st 5 chain, * 3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.

3rd row: 1 treble in the 1st stitch, * 1 leaf worked as follows: 6 chain, then without noticing the loop left on the needle 1 long treble in the 2nd and 1 in the 1st of the 6 chain; these stitches are not cast off separately, but together with the loop left on the needle. Then 5 chain, miss 7, 1 treble in the 8th stitch, repeat from *.

4th row: 1 double in the 1st of the 5 chain, * 8 chain, 1 double in the 1st of the next 5 chain, repeat from *.

 

5th row: * 1 leaf as in the 3rd row, 1 double in the double stitch of the preceding row, 5 chain, repeat from *.

 

6th row: 1 treble in the point of the 1st leaf, * 7 chain, 1 treble in the point of the next leaf, repeat from *.

 

7th and 8th rows: Like the 1st and 2nd.

 

[Illustration: 259.--Crochet Insertion.]

The insertion seen in illustration 259 is worked in 6 rows, and is begun in the centre on a foundation chain sufficiently long not to be worked too tight.

1st row: 4 double in the 1st 4 stitches, * 4 double divided in the same way on the other side of the foundation chain, inserting the needle in the 1st row into the 2 chain. Illustration 260 shows an insertion which imitates darned netting; it is worked on a grounding imitating netting with raised figures. The grounding consists of 9 rows. Work on a sufficiently long foundation chain the 1st row as follows: 1 cross treble in the 1st and 3rd stitch, * 2 chain, missing 2 stitches under them, 1 cross treble in the 6th and 8th stitch, repeat from *.

2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 9 chain, miss 4 under them, 1 double in the 5th stitch, repeat from *.

3rd to 8th rows: 1 double in the middle stitch of every chain stitch scallop, 4 chain between. 9th row: Like the 1st. Work from illustration square patterns on this grounding, consisting each of 4 leaves; for these leaves carry on the cotton taken double in double windings from 1 double stitch to another, so as to have 4 threads lying close to each other; darn these as can be seen in illustration, with single cotton.

[Illustration: 260.--Crochet Insertion.]

 

* * * * *

 

261.--_Crochet Lace_.

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 30.

 

[Illustration: 261.--Crochet Lace.]

A particular kind of purl makes this border look very like guipure lace. Begin with a foundation chain worked in the following manner:--* 3 chain, the last of them forms 1 purl; this is made by drawing out a long loop on the needle, taking the needle out of the loop, inserting it in the chain stitch before the last one, drawing the cotton through it, and continuing to work so that the loop out of which the needle has been drawn forms 1 purl. All the purl must be equally long; to do this more easily the loop may be kept on the needle till a chain stitch has been worked in that which comes just before the purl, continue the foundation chain, and repeat from *.

1st row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch of the foundation, * 1 chain, 1 slip stitch in the nearest purl of the foundation chain; repeat from *.

2nd row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 1 stitch under it; 1 slip stitch in the slip stitch of the preceding row; repeat from *.

3rd row: Like the 1st.

 

4th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, missing 5 stitches under them; 1 double in the 6th stitch; repeat from *.

 

5th row: 1 long double in the 1st stitch, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, * 1 double in the middle of the next 5 chain of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain; repeat from *. 6th to 9th rows: Alternately like the 4th and 5th rows.

10th row: 1 double in the 1st stitch, * 6 chain, 1 double long treble (throw the cotton 3 times round the needle) in the 1st of these chain stitches; the stitch is only completed so far as still to leave 2 loops on the needle; 1 double long treble in the same chain stitch. This stitch is cast off so as to leave in all 3 loops, and the cotton over the needle; these loops are cast off together by drawing the cotton once through them. This forms 1 leaf, or one-half of the bell-shaped patterns. 3 purl, 1 chain, 1 leaf like the preceding one, 1 slip stitch in the 1st of the first 6 chain stitches; the other half of the pattern is then completed; 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the next scallop of the preceding row, 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop 11th row: 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the next purl of the preceding row, 1 purl, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the following purl, 1 purl (the 3 purl which are worked on the 3 purl of the bell-shaped pattern are made in this row and in the following one as follows:--Crochet 1 chain after the slip stitch, leave it for 1 purl, and work the next chain stitch in the slip stitch), 1 purl, 5 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the following scallop, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain. 12th row: 3 purl on the next 3 purl of the preceding row, 3 chain between, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the middle stitch of the next 5 chain stitches, 1 bell-shaped pattern like those of the 10th row, 1 purl, 3 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain.

* * * * *

 

CROCHET D'OYLEYS IN IMITATION OF POINT LACE.

 

262--_D'Oyley No_. 1.

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.

 

Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, unite it.

 

Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 9 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, 1 double crochet, unite it to the 1st stitch.

 

Round 2: 3 single crochet up the 3 1st of the chain in last row, *, 5 long into the loop of 9 chain, 1 chain, repeat from *.

 

Round 3: 1 long into the 1 chain in last round, 9 chain, repeat. Round 4: 11 double crochet into the 9 chain in last round, repeat.

 

Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.

 

Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, 5 chain, repeat.

 

Round 7: The same as 6th.

 

No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: * 1 double crochet, 4 chain, repeat from * 5 times more.

 

Round 2: Into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 4 long, and 1 double crochet, repeat.

 

Round 3: 1 double crochet over the double crochet in 1st round, 6 chain, repeat.

 

Round 4: Into the 6 chain in last round 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, repeat.

 

Round 5: 1 double crochet over the one in 3rd round, 8 chain, repeat.

 

Round 6: Into the 8 chain 1 double crochet, 8 long, 1 double crochet, repeat.

 

Round 7: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 5th round, 10 chain, repeat.

 

Round 8: Into the 10 chain 1 double crochet, 10 long, 1 double crochet, repeat.

 

Round 9: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 7th round, 12 chain, repeat.

 

Round 10: Into the 12 chain 1 double crochet, 12 long, 1 double crochet, repeat.

 

Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 9th round, 14 chain, repeat.

 

Round 12: Into the 14 chain 1 double crochet, 14 long, 1 double crochet, repeat.

 

Round 13: 1 double crochet over the 1 in 11th round, 14 chain, repeat. Work 3 patterns of No. 2 for this d'oyley.

No. 3.--Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it. Into the circle 1 double crochet, *, 2 long, 3 chain, repeat from * twice more, 2 double long, 4 chain, 2 double long, * 3 chain, 2 long, repeat from * twice more, 1 double crochet, 7 chain. Repeat from the beginning. In working the 2nd pattern, join it to the 1st with the 2nd 3 chain, work 3 leaves in this manner, then make only 3 chain, and work a 4th leaf without joining it to the 3rd, make 3 chain after 4th leaf, and work a stitch of double crochet into last 7 chain, make 3 chain. Work a 5th leaf, and join it to the 4th as before, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 7 chain, 3 chain. Work a 6th leaf in the same way, and join it; but make no chain stitch after the 6th leaf. Work 3 patterns of No. 3 for this d'oyley.

No. 4.--The same as No. 3, only work 4 leaves instead of 6, 2 on each side. Work 3 patterns of No. 4 for this d'oyley.

 

No. 5.--Work the 3 1st leaves of No. 3 This is not repeated in this d'oyley.

 

[Illustration: 262.--D'Oyley No. 1.]

No. 6.--Make a chain of 15 stitches, and unite it. Work into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double, 6 long, 5 chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet, 7 chain, joining the 7th long stitch to the corresponding stitch in 1st leaf, 3 chain. Work the 3rd leaf the same as the 1st without joining it to the 2nd, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3 chain, work a 4th leaf, and join it to the 3rd, 3 chain, and join it to the 1st stitch of double crochet at the beginning of the 1st leaf. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.

No. 7.--Tie a round of cotton about this size O.

 

Round 1: 20 double crochet into the round.

 

Round 2: 2 double crochet into successive loops, work 2 into 3rd loop, repeat.

 

Round 3: 1 double crochet into every loop.

 

Round 4: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.

 

Round 5: Into the 5 chain in last round 2 long, 5 chain, 2 more long stitches into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.

 

Round 6: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 6 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.

 

No. 8.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it. Round I: 28 double long into the circle.

 

Round 2: 2 double crochet between each long in last round.

 

Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.

 

Round 4: 3 long into the 2 chain, 1 chain, repeat.

 

Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.

No. 9.--1st row: Make a chain of 30 stitches, work 1 long stitch into the 6th, *, 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * to the end of the row.

2nd row: 11 chain, *, 1 double crochet on the other side of the chain into the centre one of the 3 between the long stitch, 1 chain, turn, and work into the 11 chain 3 double crochet and 9 long, 11 chain, repeat from * 7 times more, work into the chain stitches at the end 3 loops of 11 chain with the double crochet and long stitch as before, then work the other half of the pattern to correspond. 3rd row: Into the space between the long stitches 5 double crochet, 2 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.

No. 10.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: Into the circle 24 double long, with 1 chain between each.

 

Round 2: 2 double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, repeat.

 

Round 3: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.

 

Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 2 chain in last round, 5 chain, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.

 

No. 11.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 20 long into the circle.

 

Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop.

 

Round 3: 1 double crochet, 6 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.

 

Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 6 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 5: 10 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.

Round 6: 1 long, 2 long into the next loop, repeat. Round 7: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.

No. 12.--Make a chain of 21 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 30 double crochet into the circle. Round 2: *, 21 chain, join it to the 18th, work into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 7 chain, 2 long, 5 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long and 1 double crochet, 1 single crochet into the 1st double crochet, 3 chain, 4 double crochet into the 3 chain, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4 double crochet into the 7 chain, 3 chain, 4 double crochet into the same place, 2 chain, 6 double crochet into the 5 chain, 2 chain, 4 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the stitches of double crochet at the end, 3 single crochet down the 3 for the stem, 9 single crochet into successive loops round the circle, repeat from * twice more. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.

No. 13.--*, make 9 chain stitches, turn, 1 double crochet into each loop, repeat from * twice more, then work round both sides of these 3 points 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop at the top of each point, work twice into the same loop, then 5 chain, 1 double crochet into each end, unite the 5th to the last of the centre point of 9. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley.

No. 14.--Round 1: * make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, repeat from * 4 more times.

 

Round 2: 1 double crochet into 6 successive loops, 3 stitches into the 7th, 1 into each of the next 6 loops, repeat.

 

Round 3: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre 1 of the 3 in last, 7 chain, miss 6, repeat.

 

Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. This pattern is not repeated.

No. 15.--*, make a chain of 19 stitches, unite it, 3 long into successive loops, 3 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the next loop, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the same place, 5 chain, work into successive loops 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 double long, 3 long, unite the last to the first, 9 chain, repeat from * once more, then 5 double crochet into the 5 1st of the 9 chain, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each, and 1 into each of the 4 remaining of the 9 chain. This pattern is not repeated in this d'oyley. No. 16.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, *, work into successive loops 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, 2 more double crochet into the same loop as the last, repeat from * once, make a chain of 24 stitches, unite to the 20th, work into the circle, *, 1 long, 3 chain, 1 long, repeat from * 12 times, work into the 3 chain 1 long, 3 chain, work another long into the same place, repeat, join the last with 1 single crochet to the last of the 24 chain, 2 double crochet over the 2 of the leaf, 7 long into successive loops, 4 double long into successive loops, 4 long into the next loop, and 1 long into the next. This pattern is not repeated. When all these pieces are done, join them as shown in the engraving, sewing them firmly together with the same cotton, then work an edging round in the following manner:--1st row: 1 double long into the 4 chain at the point of the leaf of No. 4 pattern, 7 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3 chain in the same leaf, 8 chain, 1 double long into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of No. 6 pattern, 15 chain, 1 long into the 4 chain of the next leaf in the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 11th pattern, 6 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 6 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the last, 12 chain, work into the 2nd 5 chain from the join of the 7th pattern 1 long, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the next 5 chain, 9 chain, 1 long into the next 5 chain, 8 chain, 1 double crochet in the 1st 3 chain from the join of 4th pattern, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of the 2nd leaf of the same pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of the same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain of No. 5 pattern, 6 chain, 1 long into the 7 chain between the leaves of the same pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 7 chain, 6 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of the 3rd leaf of the same pattern, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 of double crochet from the join of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the centre of the 2nd 5 double crochet from the last, 11 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd 5 of double crochet from the last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of 15th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 6th long stitch of the same leaf, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the end of the stem of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double long into the 1st 3 chain of the 4th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double long into the last 3 chain of the same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double long into the 2nd 3 chain of the 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 3 chain of No. 16 pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of the same pattern from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 10th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre of the 7 of double crochet in 12th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the 5 double crochet of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain in centre of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of the 8th pattern, 8 chain, 1 single crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the last, 10 chain, 1 double long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of single, 13 chain, and join it to the double long stitch at the beginning of the row. 2nd row: *, 12 chain, and unite it, 1 chain to cross, and on the other side into the circle 1 double crochet, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 long, 3 chain, 2 double long, 4 chain, then work down the other side to correspond, 8 double crochet into successive loops of the foundation, repeat from *, joining the leaves in the 1st 3 chain.

* * * * *

 

_263.--D'Oyley No. 2._

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.

 

Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 4 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop.

 

Round 2: 2 double crochet into each loop.

 

Round 3: 1 double crochet, 2 double crochet into the next loop, repeat.

 

Round 4: 1 double crochet into each loop.

 

Round 5: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.

 

Round 6: 9 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat.

Round 7: 9 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 5th of the 9 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, and repeat.

Round 8: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 9 in last round, 11 chain, repeat. Round 9: 15 double crochet into the 11 chain in last round, repeat. Round 10: 15 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 8th of the 15 in last round, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, repeat. Round 11: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 15 in last round, 17 chain, repeat. Round 12: 21 double crochet into the 17 chain in last round.

[Illustration: 263.--D'Oyley No. 2.]

 

No. 2.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: *, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the circle, repeat from * twice more.

 

Round 2: 12 long into the 7 chain, repeat.

 

Round 3: 2 long into each loop.

 

Round 4: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.

 

Round 5: 2 long into the 2 chain in last round, 1 chain, repeat. Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 5 chain, repeat.

 

No. 3.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: Into the circle 1 double crochet, 7 long, 6 double long, 4 chain, 6 double long, 7 long, 1 double crochet.

 

Round 2: 1 double crochet into every loop.

 

Round 3: 2 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 long and repeat, 4 long at the point, finish with a single stitch, 3 chain, and repeat this once more.

No. 4.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it, chain of 15 and unite it, chain of 13 and unite it, work 6 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the 1st of the 1st loop of 13, 3 into the next loop, and 1 into each of the 6 next, 1 double crochet into each of the 1st 7 of the loop of 15, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 7, 1 double crochet into each of the 6 1st of the next loop of 13, 3 into the next, 1 into each of the next 6.

2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.

 

No. 5.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: Into the circle 3 double crochet, 3 long, 3 double long, 5 treble long, 3 double long, 3 long, 3 double crochet.

Round 2: 1 double crochet into each of the 9 1st loops, 2 into each of the 2 next, and 3 into the next, 2 into each of the 2 next, and 1 into each of the 9 next. Round 3: 1 long, *, 3 chain, 1 long into the next loop, repeat from * at the end, unite the last to the 1st stitch, 9 chain, repeat from the beginning; in uniting the last stitch of the 2nd leaf, take up the centre stitch of the 9 chain with it, make 5 chain, and work a 3rd leaf in the same manner; in uniting the last stitch of the 3rd leaf, take up the last of the 5 chain with it, make 9 chain, turn, and work 1 double crochet into each, join the last to the last of the 5 and 9 chain stitch.

No. 6.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 5 chain, repeat 5 times more.

 

Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double crochet, repeat.

 

Round 3: 1 double crochet over the 1st double crochet in last round, 7 chain, repeat.

 

Round 4: Into the 7 chain in last round 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, and repeat.

 

Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last round, 11 chain, repeat.

 

Round 6: Into the 11 chain in last round 3 double crochet, 9 long, 3 more double crochet, repeat.

No. 7.--1st row: Make a chain of 20 stitches. 1 long into the 15th, *, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * to the end of the row.

2nd row: Turn, into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 2 long, 1 double crochet, repeat this to the end, then into the 5 chain 1 double crochet,
2 long, 1 double long, 2 long, 1 double crochet, work the other side to correspond.

3rd row: 1 double crochet into the 1st double crochet in last row, 7 chain, and repeat to the point, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the double long, work the other side to correspond. 4th row: Into the 7 chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single into the last double crochet, 4 more double crochet into the same place, repeat.

No. 8.--1st row: 1 chain of 7 stitches, 1 double crochet into each of the 6 1st, 3 stitches into the 7th, work on the other side of the chain to correspond. 2nd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. 3rd row: 5 double crochet into the 3 chain, repeat.

No. 9.--The same as No. 3 in the 1st d'oyley, only 5 leaves instead of 6, 2 on each side, and 1 at the end; 2 of these will be required for this d'oyley.

No. 10.--Work the 2 1st leaves of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley; 3 of these will be required for this d'oyley.

 

No. 11.--Work only 1 leaf of No. 4 in the 1st d'oyley. This is not to be repeated in this d'oyley.

 

No. 12.--The same as No. 4 in 1st d'oyley. No. 13.--The same as No. 5.

 

No. 14.--The same as No. 8 in 1st d'oyley.

 

No. 15.--The same as No. 10.

 

No. 16.--The same as No. 11 in the 1st d'oyley.

 

No. 17.--The same as No. 2 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required.

No. 18.--The same as No 6 in 1st d'oyley; 2 of these will be required. When all these pieces are done, sew them firmly together, and work the edging round in the following manner:--1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 10 chain, 1 double crochet in the 4 chain of same leaf, 8 chain, 1 long into the 4th of the 5 chain, from the joining of 15th pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from the last, 12 chain, 1 long into the last 3 chain of 10th pattern, 3 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 2nd leaf, 12 chain, 1 long into the 1st double crochet from the join of No. 6 pattern, 9 chain, 1 long into the next stitch of double crochet after the long stitch, 16 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the join of 14th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 3rd 5 chain from the long stitch, 9 chain, 1 long into the 3rd 5 chain from the stitch of double crochet, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 15th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same leaf, 9 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from the join of 17th pattern, 10 chain, 1 long into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 14 chain, 1 long into the 4th 5 chain from the join of 16th pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 6 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 5 chain from last, 12 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 9th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same leaf, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of 10th pattern, 8 chain, 1 double crochet into the 7 chain of same pattern, 6 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf, 11 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of 11th pattern, 9 chain, 1 double crochet into the last 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the centre 3 chain of 1st leaf of 12th pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st 3 chain of 2nd leaf same pattern, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into the 4 chain of same leaf, 10 chain, 1 long into the 5th 3 chain from the join of the 3rd pattern, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 2nd 3 chain, 4 chain, 1 long into the 2nd 3 chain of same pattern, 8 chain, 1 long into the 1st 14 chain from join of 17th pattern, 12 chain, 1 long into the next 14 chain of same pattern, 10 chain, and unite. 2nd row: The same edging as to 1st d'oyley.

* * * * *

 

264.--_D'Oyley No. 3._

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.

Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 3 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 4 in same d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 5, 2 patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 7, 1 pattern from No. 8; and 1 from No. 10 in same d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 11 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 9 in same d'oyley, and 2 from No. 10.

Then 1 pattern in the following manner:--Round 1: Make a chain stitch of 12 stitches, 1 double crochet, 10 long into successive loops, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet at the point, and work down the other side to correspond.

Round 2: 2 long into each loop.

 

Round 3: 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat.

 

Round 4: 1 double crochet into the 1st 4 chain of 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat.

Work 1 pattern in this way, 1 chain of 14, 1 double crochet into each, 5 chain, 1 double crochet into the last double crochet, turn, 6 double crochet into the circle, with 3 chain between each, into each 3 chain, 5 long, turn, 1 double crochet between each of the 5 long, with 6 chain between each double crochet, turn, into the 1st double crochet 1 long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 treble long, 2 chain, 1 double long, 2 chain, 1 long all into the same place, 1 double crochet into the 6 chain. Repeat this 5 times more, then work down the 7 of 14, 7 long, and 7 of single crochet. The edging to be the same as in the former d'oyleys. The 1st round of the edging takes up so much space to write, that we think it better to leave it to the judgment of the worker. It will be seen by the engraving when it is necessary to work a double long or long stitch, or a stitch of single or double crochet, and the number of chain stitches between must be just sufficient to make the circle perfect. The best way is to cut a round of blue paper and place them on it from the engraving, then sew them together, and tack them to the paper, and work the 1st row of the edging before removing the paper. * * * * *

265.--_D'Oyley No. 4._

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.

Work 3 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 1 pattern from No. 4, 1 pattern from No. 5 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 6, and 1 from No. 8 in same d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 2 in 2nd d'oyley, and 1 leaf from No. 3 in 2nd d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 11 in 2nd d'oyley, and the following pattern.

No. 1.--Make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 29 double crochet into successive loops, turn, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 2 double long, 8 treble long into 4 loops, 8 double long, 9 long, 4 double crochet, 3 chain, work down the other side to correspond, then 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all round.

No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, turn, miss 1 loop, 2 double crochet into successive loops, * 2 chain, miss two loops, 1 long into the next, repeat from * 3 times more, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, 3 double crochet into successive loops, 1 double crochet into every loop on both sides. Next round: * 5 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet, 3 long, miss 2 loops of the foundation, 1 double crochet, repeat from * at the point, miss only 1 loop, work 2 patterns of this number.

No. 3.--Make a chain of 36 stitches, turn, miss 2 loops, 2 long, *, 1 chain, 3 long, repeat from * 3 times, 1 double crochet, turn, *, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1st chain stitch, repeat from * 3 times, at the point make 5 chain instead of 4, work down the other side to correspond, turn, and into each of the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 7 long, and 1 double crochet, at the point 10 long instead of 7, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 28, turn, miss 12 loops, 1 single crochet, then into the circle 20 long, turn, 1 double crochet, 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain in last row, 5 chain, repeat, turn, into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 7 chain, repeat, turn, into the 7 chain 1 double crochet, 1 long, 7 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem, 1 double crochet, 1 long, 4 double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 1 chain of 14, turn, miss 3 loops, 10 long, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, turn, 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, turn, into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, 5 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, work down the stem in double crochet.
No. 4.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: Into the circle 16 long. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop, 3 chain after each. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 3 chain, repeat. Round 4: 4 long into the 3 chain, repeat. Round 5: 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. *, for the leaves, 1 chain of 22, turn, 4 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, 1 chain to cross the stem, on the other side 1 double crochet, 1 long, 9 double long, 1 long, 4 double crochet, 2 double crochet at the point, work down the other side to correspond, 2 double crochet down the stem, 1 chain of 8, repeat from *, 1 chain of 12, and unite it to the 3 chain of the round, turn, 12 double crochet down the stem, work another leaf in the same manner, then work a stem of 8, and make another leaf the same as before, finish with a stem of 8.

No. 5.--Round 1: Make a chain of 12 stitches, and unite it, 1 double crochet, miss 3 loops, 12 chain, repeat twice more. Round 2: Into the 12 chain 2 double crochet, 13 long, 2 double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 2 double crochet into successive loops, 13 long into successive loops, 2 double crochet into successive loops, repeat. Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 2 double crochet, 5 long, 2 double crochet, repeat.

No. 6.--Make a chain of 11 stitches, and unite it. Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop. Round 2: 1 double crochet into each loop. Round 3: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat. Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat. Round 5: Into the 5 chain 3 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 3 more of double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. Round 6: 1 long into the 4 chain, 7 chain, repeat. Round 7: Into the 7 chain 4 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, 4 more double crochet into the same place, 4 chain, repeat. When all these pieces are done sew them together, as shown in the engraving, and work the edging to correspond with the other d'oyleys.

* * * * *

 

266.--_D'Oyley No. 5._

 

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and 1 skein of fine embroidery cotton, by the same makers.

 

Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 5 times more.

Round 2: Into the 7 chain 11 stitches of double crochet, repeat. Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 11, 9 chain, miss 5 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, 9 chain, repeat.

Round 4: Into the 9 chain 13 double crochet, repeat.

 

Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 13, 7 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat.

 

Round 6: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, and repeat.

 

No. 2.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 7 times more.

Round 2: 6 chain, miss the 1st, then work into successive loops 2 double crochet and 3 long, 1 double crochet into the 1 double crochet in 1st round, repeat.

Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 5 chain, and repeat.

Round 4: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, 1 double long, 1 double crochet into the 5 chain, repeat.

Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in the 3rd round, 5 chain, repeat.

 

Round 6: Same as 4th.

 

Round 7: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 5th round, 6 chain, repeat.

 

Round 8: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, 2 double long.

 

Round 9: Same as 7th. Round 10: Same as 8th. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.

 

[Illustration: 266.--D'Oyley No. 5.]

 

No. 3.--Make a chain of 16, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat.

 

Round 2: 6 double crochet into successive loops, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the last double crochet, repeat.

 

Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 3rd of the 6, 13 chain, repeat. Round 4: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat.

 

Round 5: 1 long and 1 chain alternately, missing 1 loop between each.

Round 6: 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, 1 chain, 1 double crochet into the next chain, 5 chain, work another double crochet into the same place, 1 chain, repeat.

No. 4.--Make a chain of 14 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 6 times more.

 

Round 2: 5 double crochet into the 7 chain, repeat.

Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 double crochet, 3 long, and 2 double long, 1 double crochet into the last of the 5 double crochet, repeat.

Round 4: 1 double crochet at the top of the point, 4 chain, miss 1 loop, 1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, 4 chain, 1 double crochet into the 1 in last round. Work the other side of the point to correspond. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.

No. 5.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop.

 

Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, 1 into the next, repeat.

Round 3: 8 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops, 5 double crochet and 2 long, miss 1 of the last round, work 4 double crochet into successive loops, repeat 3 times more, at the end of the round work 4 more double crochet.

Round 4: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat all, round the 4 points and 2 stitches beyond the 4th, 7 chain, 1 double crochet into each of the 7, finish the round with 3 chain and 1 double crochet as before.

No. 6.--Make a chain of 5 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 1 double crochet, 5 chain, repeat 4 times more.

 

Round 2: Into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, repeat till 5 double crochet are done, repeat.

 

Round 3: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 1st round, 7 chain, repeat.

 

Round 4: Same as 2nd.

 

Round 5: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 3rd round, 7 chain, repeat.

 

Round 6: Same as 2nd.

 

Round 7: Same as 5th.

 

Round 8: Same as 2nd, only 4 chain instead of 3.

 

Round 9: 1 double crochet into the 1 in 7th round, 8 chain, repeat.

 

Round 10: The same as 8th, only making 5 chain instead of 4. Four of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.

 

No. 7.--Make a chain of 6 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 1 double crochet, 7 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat twice more.

 

Round 2: Into the 7 chain 2 double crochet, 7 long, 2 double crochet, repeat.

Round 3: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat, 11 chain, work 2 more leaves in the same way, 1 double crochet into the 3 chain, 4 chain, repeat round 2 sides of the leaf, 3 chain, repeat the stitch of double crochet and 4 chain round 2 sides of each leaf, joining them with 3 chain. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.

No. 8.--1st row: Make a chain of 14 stitches, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 5 double crochet, 5 long, 3 double long, turn. 2nd row: 2 double long into each of the 3, 9 long into successive loops, 5 long into the double crochet at the point of the leaf, 9 long into successive loops, 6 double long into the next 2 loops, 9 double long into the end of the 1st row, unite the last to the first double long in 2nd row. 3rd row: 1 double crochet, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. No loop to be missed at the point, then work with the embroidery cotton a smaller leaf on it in satin stitch, raising it first with the cotton.

No. 9.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 20 long into the circle.

 

Round 2: 1 double crochet, taking both sides of the loop, 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.

 

Round 3: Double crochet into the centre of the 9 chain, 7 chain, repeat.

Round 4: Into the 7 chain of last row 1 double crochet, 1 long, 3 double long, 1 long, 1 double crochet, repeat, then work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns with 3 leaves from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns with 2 leaves, and 1 pattern with 1 leaf, work 3 patterns from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley.

When all these patterns are done join them as shown in the engraving, and work the edging as directed in the former d'oyleys.

 

* * * * *

 

267.--_D'Oyley No. 6_.

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.

 

Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 7 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 2 double crochet into each loop.

 

Round 2: 2 double crochet into 1 loop, and 1 into the next, repeat.

 

Round 3: Increase to 30 double crochet.

 

Round 4: 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, 5 double crochet, and repeat 5 times more.

 

Round 5: 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 5 in last round, 11 chain, repeat.

 

Round 6: 1 double crochet into every loop.

 

Round 7: 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st, 12 double crochet, and repeat.

 

Round 8: 1 double crochet into the 6th of the 12, 15 chain, repeat.

 

Round 9: 1 double crochet into every loop.

Round 10: 7 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 1 double crochet, 2 long, and 3 double long, miss 5 loops of the last round, work 1 double crochet, repeat.

Round 11: 1 double crochet over the 1 in last round, miss 1 loop, 1
double crochet into the next, *, 3 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat from * 4
times more, repeat from the beginning of the row.
No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.

Round 1: 30 double crochet into the circle.

 

Round 2: 1 double crochet, 13 chain, miss 5 loops, repeat.

 

Round 3: 17 double crochet into the 13 chain, repeat.

Round 4: 1 long, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 2nd of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat. Four patterns of this number will be required for this d'oyley.

[Illustration: 267.--D'Oyley No. 6.]

 

No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 1 double crochet, 11 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat 3 times more.

Round 2: Into the 11 chain, *, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st chain, repeat from * twice more, 3 more double crochet, repeat from the beginning of the row.

No. 4.--Make a chain of 6, and unite it.

 

Round 1: 1 long, 4 chain, repeat 5 times more.

 

Round 2: Into the 4 chain in last row 1 long, 4 chain, work another long into the same place, 2 chain, repeat.

Round 3: Into the 2 chain 3 double crochet, into the 4 chain 1 double crochet, 11 chain, work another double crochet into the same place, repeat.

Round 4: Into the 11 chain 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 7 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 7, 3 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, 3 double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet into the centre one of the 3 in last round, 2 chain, repeat; then work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from No. 3, 2 patterns from No. 4, 3 from No. 6, and 1 each from Nos. 11, 13, and 14 in 1st d'oyley, 1 pattern from each of Nos. 3 and 4 in 2nd d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 2 in 5th d'oyley, and 1 pattern each from Nos. 4 and 6 in the 5th d'oyley. Sew these pieces firmly together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before.

* * * * * 268.--_D'Oyley No. 7._

 

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and 1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.

 

Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 16 stitches and unite it.

 

1st round: 2 double crochet into each loop.

 

2nd round: 1 double crochet into each loop.

 

3rd round: 1 double crochet, 9 chain, miss 3 loops, repeat.

 

4th round: Into the 9 chain 11 double crochet.

 

5th round: 1 long, 2 chain, miss 2 loops, repeat.

6th round: Into the 2 chain 1 double crochet, 3 chain, 1 single crochet into the one double crochet, work another double crochet into the 2 chain, 2 double crochet into the next 2 chain, repeat.

7th round: 1 double crochet into the 1st of the 2 in last round, 13 chain, repeat.

 

8th round: Into the 13 chain 11 double crochet, repeat.

No. 2.--Make a chain of 13 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make a chain of 15 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, make a chain of 13 stitches, 1 double crochet into each.

2nd row: 1 double crochet into the end of each of these points, then work round _both_ sides of these points in double crochet, working twice into the end of each point.

3rd row: 3 double crochet over the 3 at the beginning of last row, *, 4 chain, single crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, work a long stitch into the next, repeat from * all round, at the beginning and end of the 3rd point miss 2 loops instead of 1, then work a stitch of double crochet into the 1st of the 3, 6 chain, miss the 1st, work into successive loops 2 long and 3 double crochet, 1 double crochet into the last of the 3. This completes the pattern.

No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it. 1st round: 2 double crochet into each loop.

2nd round: 1 double crochet into 1 loop, 2 double crochet into the next, repeat.
3rd round: 2 double crochet into successive loops, 2 double crochet into the next, repeat.

4th round: 11 double crochet into successive loops, *, 9 chain, miss 2 loops, 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from *.

5th round: 11 double crochet over the 11 in last round, work into the 9 chain 5 double crochet, 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the chain, 5 more double crochet into the same place, repeat.

6th round: 13 double crochet over the 11 in last round, *, 15 chain, 1 double crochet over the 1st of the 5 in last round, repeat from *.

7th round: 13 double crochet over the 13 in last round, *, work into the
15 chain 8 double crochet, 5 chain, work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st of the 5, 8 double crochet into the same place, repeat from *. This completes the pattern. Then work a circle in satin stitch on the plain part of the pattern with the Fine Embroidery Cotton. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.

[Illustration: 268.--D'Oyley No. 7.]

No. 4.--Make a chain of 16 stitches, and unite it. * make a chain of 10 stitches, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 3 double crochet, 3 long, and 3 double long, unite the last double long to the 4th of the 16 chain in the circle, repeat from * 3 times more, *, work in single crochet to the top of the point and down 6 stitches of the other side, then make a chain of 8 stitches, miss the 1st, work into successive loops 3 stitches of double crochet, 2 long, and 2 double long, unite the last to the 3rd of the next point, and repeat from * 3 times more. Three of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in the 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 5, and 1 from No. 6 in 1st d'oyley, work 2 patterns with 1 leaf from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 1 pattern with 2 leaves, work 2 patterns from No. 3 in the 5th d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, and 1 from No. 6, work 6 patterns from No. 3 in the 6th d'oyley, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 6th d'oyley. Join these pieces as before, and add the same edging.

* * * * *

 

269.--_D'Oyley No. 8_

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20; and 1 skein of their fine embroidery cotton.
Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 9 stitches, work a stitch of double crochet into each of the 8 1st, work 2 into the 9th, work down the other side of the chain to correspond, and unite it.

2nd round: *, Work 1 long, make 4 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 4 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat from *. No loop to be missed at the point. When this round is finished, make 10 chain, miss the 1st, and work into successive loops 2 long, and 7 of double crochet, then make 15 chain, unite to the 7th, and work into the circle 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, repeat 5 times more.

2nd round: Work into the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 3 long, and 1 of double crochet, repeat.

 

3rd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Three of these patterns are required for this d'oyley.

 

[Illustration: 269.--D'Oyley No. 8.]

 

No. 2.--Make a chain of 6 stitches. 1st round: Work 2 double crochet into each loop.

 

2nd round: Work 1 double crochet, make 9 chain, miss 1 loop, repeat.

3rd round: Work into the 9 chain 1 long, make 1 chain, work another 1 long into the same place, make 1 chain, work a third 1 long into the same place, make 7 chain, and repeat.

4th round: Work into the centre of 3 long 2 long, make 5 chain, work 2 more long into the same place, make 5 chain, work into the centre of the
7 chain 1 double crochet, make 3 chain, work another of double crochet into the same place, make 5 chain, and repeat. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley. Work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from Nos. 3, 4, and 6, work 1 pattern with 3
leaves from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 with only 1 leaf, work 1 pattern from each of Nos. 13 and 14 in 1st d'oyley, work 1 pattern from 2 in 5th d'oyley, and 1 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No.
6 in 5th d'oyley, work 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, and 2 from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, work 1 pattern from No. 1 in 7th d'oyley, work 2 patterns from No. 3, and 1 pattern from No. 4 in 7th d'oyley, then sew them together as before.

* * * * *

 

270.--_D'Oyley No. 9_.

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20. Pattern No. 1--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite ir.

 

1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 11 times more.

 

2nd round: Work 1 double crochet into every loop.

3rd round: *, Make 11 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work 10 double crochet down the chain, miss 1 loop, work 7 double crochet and repeat from * 5 times more.

4th round: Work 1 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 10, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 double crochet into the point, work down the other side to correspond, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet, make 2 chain, miss 3 loops, and repeat.

5th round: Work into each of the 5 chain 1 double crochet, 5 long stitches, and 1 double crochet.

 

No. 2.--Make a chain of 20 stitches, and unite it.

 

1st round: Work a stitch of double crochet into 1 loop, work 2 double crochet into the next, repeat.

2nd round: * Work 3 double crochet, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat from * 9 times more, work 2 double crochet.

3rd round: * Make 21 chain stitches, work 1 double crochet in the centre one of the 3, turn, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, work 7 double crochet into the 21 chain, repeat from * 8 times more.

4th round: Work 15 double crochet into each loop of 21 chain, above the last 7 work 20 double crochet into the last loop of 21, make 5 chain, turn, work 1 single crochet into the last of the 5 chain, 7 double crochet, make 4 chain.

5th round: Work 19 double crochet, beginning on the 1st of the 7 in the
1st loop of 21 chain, * make 6 chain, turn, miss 1 loop, work into successive loops a stitch of double, 3 long, 1 double long, then miss 4 double crochet stitches, work 5 double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, miss 1 loop,
5 double crochet into successive loops, repeat from * 8 times more, then work 12 double crochet. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.

[Illustration: 270.--D'Oyley No. 9.] No. 3.--Make a chain of 8 stitches, and unite it.

 

1st round: Work into the circle 1 long, make 3 chain, repeat 9 times more.

2nd round: Work into the 3 chain 1 double crochet, make 17 chain, work another stitch of double crochet into the same place, make 1 chain, work
1 double crochet into the next 3 chain, make 1 chain, and repeat.

3rd round: Work into the 17 chain 20 double crochet, work 1 double crochet into the 1 chain, make 1 chain, work 1 double crochet into the next 1 chain, and repeat.

4th round: Work a stitch of double crochet into the 1 chain in last round, * work 5 double crochet into successive loops, beginning on the
1st of the 20, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the
5, repeat from * twice more, then work 5 double crochet into successive loops, and repeat from the beginning of the round. Two of these patterns will be required for this d'oyley.

No. 4.--Make 21 chain and unite it, make a chain of 27 and unite it, make a chain of 21 and unite it. 1st round: Work in the 21 chain 25 stitches of double crochet, work into the 27 chain 31 double crochet, work into the 21 chain 25 double crochet. 2nd round: Work 3 stitches of double crochet into successive loops, make 5 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, repeat this 6 times more, then work 3 double crochet and repeat from the beginning in the centre loop, repeat this 9 times instead of 7. Two of these are required for this d'oyley.

No. 5.--Make a chain of 44 stitches, work 1 double crochet into each, turn, make 21 chain, work 1 double crochet into the 4th chain on the other side, * make 21 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 double crochet into the next, repeat from * 9 times more, work 1 single crochet into the end loop, work 44 double crochet into successive loops, work 15 double into the 1st loop of 21, work 4 double crochet into each loop of 21, and 15 into the end one, then * work 2 double crochet, make 3 chain, work 1 single crochet into the 1st of the 3, repeat from * all round.

Work 2 patterns from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, 1 from No. 3, 2 with 3 leaves, and 2 with 2 leaves, from No. 3 in 1st d'oyley, 2 patterns from No. 6 in same d'oyley, and 3 patterns from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley, sew them together as shown in the engraving, and add the edging as before.

* * * * * 271.--_D'Oyley No. 10_.

 

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 20.

Pattern No. 1.--Make a chain of 19 stitches, turn, miss 5 loops, work 10 double crochet, make 3 chain, miss 3 loops, work 1 long, make 3 chain stitches, miss 3 loops, work 1 long stitch, make 3 chain stitches, work a stitch of double crochet into the last loop, then work into the 1st 3 chain on the other side, 1 double crochet, 5 long, work into the next 3 chain 4 long stitches, work 4 long stitches into the next 3 chain stitches, then work into the 5 chain at the point 8 long stitches, then work down the other side to correspond, * make 3 chain, miss 1 loop, work 1 long, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch into the same place, make 1 chain, work another long stitch into the same place, miss 1 loop, work 1 double crochet, repeat from * 7 times more, then work into the 1st 3 chain 1 double crochet, make 1 chain, work 1 long stitch, * make 1, work 1 double long stitch, repeat from * twice more, make 1 chain, work 1 long; all these stitches are worked into the same 3 chain, then work 1 double crochet into the chain stitch between the 2nd and 3rd long stitches, repeat this 7 times more; this finishes the leaf; then make 16 chain, and work a second leaf the same as 1st, then work 2 double crochet down, then make 12 chain, and work a third leaf the same as 1st, work 14 stitches down the stem, and work a 4th leaf the same as 1st, work 8 double crochet down the stem, work a 5th leaf the same as 1st, make a chain of 40 stitches, turn, and work back in double crochet.

[Illustration: 271.--D'Oyley No. 10.]

No. 2.--Make a chain of 10 stitches, and unite it, *, work a stitch of double crochet into the circle, make 13 chain, and repeat from * five times more, then work 17 stitches into each of the 13 chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, beginning on the second of the 13, *, make 5 chain stitches, and work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st of the 5 chain, then work 2 stitches of double crochet, and repeat from * 5 times more; for the stem make a chain of 30 stitches, turn, * work 5 stitches of double crochet, make 5 chain, turn, and work a stitch of single crochet into the 1st, repeat from * 4 times more, then work down the other side to correspond; then work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 1st d'oyley, and 2 from No. 3, 2 with only two leaves, and 2 from No. 6 in the same d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 6 in 5th d'oyley, and 3 from No. 3 in 6th d'oyley; work 1 pattern from No. 2 in 9th d'oyley, and 1 from No. 3; work 3 patterns from No. 4 in the same d'oyley, sew the pieces together as before, and work the edging.

* * * * *

 

272 _and_ 273.--_Work-Basket in Straw and Silk Crochet-Work_.

 

Materials: Straw; brown floss silk; brown ribbon, 1-1/4 inch wide; small glass beads; a piece of bamboo cane.

This basket has a cover formed of two pieces. It can be employed for many things, and is formed entirely of crochet-work with brown silk over straw. A ruche trimmed with beads and bows of brown silk ribbon form the trimming of the basket. The straws over which you crochet must be damp, so as not to be stiff. They should be of unequal length, and when you join the two ends of two straws together, try to hide the beginning with the other straws. Begin the basket in the centre of the bottom part with 46 stitches; then work 9 rounds on either side of this first row, working alternately 1 double stitch, 1 or 2 chain stitches, the double stitch in the chain stitch of the preceding round, the last round over wire.

[Illustration: 273.--Bottom of Work Basket (272).]

It is necessary to increase regularly in all the rounds to keep the work flat. When you have finished the bottom begin the border of the basket, which is worked of the same piece with it, and consists of 11 rounds.

It is worked in the same way as the bottom, the first 2 rounds without increasing the number of stitches, but in the following 9 rounds increase 2 double stitches at both ends, in order that the edge may be a little wider in the upper part. In the last round add a piece of wire to the straws.

[Illustration: 272.--Work Basket in Straw and Crochet.]

The cover of the basket is formed of two pieces. Begin in the middle with 28 stitches; crochet each half in rows forming a half circle, working backwards and forwards; at the beginning of each row turn the straws, and take care that the rows which are finished form a straight line. Each half of the cover requires 9 rows; the last one is worked over wire. The two halves are united at the straight sides by a brown silk ribbon 1-1/4 inch wide, which is sewed on underneath, and which forms a sort of hinge; sew on also a piece of wire covered with brown silk, so as to make the hinge stronger. Form the handle with a piece of bamboo cane 23 inches long, and covered with straws; work over it in long stitches of brown silk, and let it go down to the bottom of the basket; then sew the cover on the handle with the brown ribbon, which forms the two parts. Trim the basket with a ruche of double box pleats, ornamented with glass beads and with bows of brown silk ribbon.

* * * * *

 

274 _and_ 275.--_Two Crochet Borders_.

 

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton Nos. 30 and 80.

No. 274.--Crochet cotton of two sizes is used for this border (No. 30 and No. 80); it is begun in the centre by a chain of stitches of the length required.

[Illustration: 274.--Crochet Border.]

 

1st row: 1 double in each stitch of the chain.

2nd row: Turn and work on the opposite side of the chain, * 1 double, 11 chain, miss 7. Repeat from *. 3rd row: * 1 double on the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double in the centre of the 7 stitches which are under the 1st loop of chain, 2 chain, 1 double on the same loop, 5 chain. Repeat from *.

4th row: * 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of chain, 3 chain, 1 treble in the 1st, but before you complete the treble stitch make 1 chain. Repeat from *. This row completes the upper half of the border. The lower half is worked over the 1st row of plain double crochet.

5th row: 1 double in each of the first 5 stitches, 15 chain, miss 9, 1 double, come back over the loop of chain and work 1 double in each stitch, come back again and work 6 small points, each made thus: 5 chain, 1 double in the 4th, and 1 treble in each of the 3 others, 1 double over the round scallop. When you have worked the 6 small points repeat from *, but always join the 1st point of one scallop to the last point of the next scallop. The pattern inside the scallops is worked in 2 rows with fine cotton. (See illustration.)

* * * * *

 

[Illustration: 275.--Crochet Border.]

No. 275.--The border is begun above the pointed scallops, filled up with lace stitches, by making alternately 3 chain, 1 purl (_i.e._, 5 chain and 1 slip stitch in the 1st). When the chain is long enough, turn and work the 1st row: Alternately 7 chain, 1 double in the centre stitch between the 2 purl.

2nd row: Turn, work 1 double in the centre of the 1st loop of 7 chain, 1 chain, 1 purl, 1 chain, 1 double in the centre of next loop, and so on.

The 3rd row (which is the last) is worked on the opposite side of the chain with purl. * In each of the 8 first stitches work 1 double, make 12 chain, miss the 4 last of the 8 double just worked, and work 1 double in the 5th, come back over the loop of chain, and work 7 small points over it. For each point make 3 chain, work 1 double in the 2nd, 1 treble in the 1st of the 3 chain, 1 double upon the loop of chain. Repeat from * 6 times more.