The Chateau of Prince Polignac HTML version
The Chateau of Prince Polignac
Few Englishmen or Englishwomen are intimately acquainted with the little town of Le
Puy. It is the capital of the old province of Le Velay, which also is now but little known,
even to French ears, for it is in these days called by the imperial name of the Department
of the Haute Loire. It is to the south-east of Auvergne, and is nearly in the centre of the
southern half of France.
But few towns, merely as towns, can be better worth visiting. In the first place, the
volcanic formation of the ground on which it stands is not only singular in the extreme,
so as to be interesting to the geologist, but it is so picturesque as to be equally gratifying
to the general tourist. Within a narrow valley there stand several rocks, rising up from the
ground with absolute abruptness. Round two of these the town clusters, and a third stands
but a mile distant, forming the centre of a faubourg, or suburb. These rocks appear to be,
and I believe are, the harder particles of volcanic matter, which have not been carried
away through successive ages by the joint agency of water and air.
When the tide of lava ran down between the hills the surface left was no doubt on a level
with the heads of these rocks; but here and there the deposit became harder than
elsewhere, and these harder points have remained, lifting up their steep heads in a line
through the valley.
The highest of these is called the Rocher de Corneille. Round this and up its steep sides
the town stands. On its highest summit there was an old castle; and there now is, or will
be before these pages are printed, a colossal figure in bronze of the Virgin Mary, made
from the cannon taken at Sebastopol. Half-way down the hill the cathedral is built, a
singularly gloomy edifice,--Romanesque, as it is called, in its style, but extremely similar
in its mode of architecture to what we know of Byzantine structures. But there has been
no surface on the rock side large enough to form a resting- place for the church, which
has therefore been built out on huge supporting piles, which form a porch below the west
front; so that the approach is by numerous steps laid along the side of the wall below the
church, forming a wondrous flight of stairs. Let all men who may find themselves
stopping at Le Puy visit the top of these stairs at the time of the setting sun, and look
down from thence through the framework of the porch on the town beneath, and at the
Behind the church is the seminary of the priests, with its beautiful walks stretching round
the Rocher de Corneille, and overlooking the town and valley below.
Next to this rock, and within a quarter of a mile of it, is the second peak, called the Rock
of the Needle. It rises narrow, sharp, and abrupt from the valley, allowing of no buildings
on its sides. But on its very point has been erected a church sacred to St. Michael, that
lover of rock summits, accessible by stairs cut from the stone. This, perhaps--this rock, I
mean--is the most wonderful of the wonders which Nature has formed at La Puy.