California Mexican Cookbook by Bertha Haffner-Ginger - HTML preview
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California Mexican-Spanish Cook Book
Selected Mexican and Spanish Recipes
By Bertha Haffner-Ginger
This book is dedicated to my daughter, nicknamed Miss "Paprika" by our pupils. She has been my inspiration and devoted companion through all the years of my public life.
B. H. G.
TO MY READERS
An announcement that my lesson for the day would be Spanish dishes, invariably brought record-breaking crowds in any city in the United States, and a demand for recipes induced me to search for the best to be found.
My three years' stay in California has enabled me to learn how to prepare the very best dishes directly from the natives, both Mexican and Spanish.
It is not generally known that Spanish dishes as they are known in California are really Mexican Indian dishes. Bread made of corn, sauces of chile peppers, jerked beef, tortillas, enchiladas, etc., are unknown in Spain as native foods; though the majority of Spanish people in California are as devoted to peppery dishes as the Mexicans themselves, and as the Mexicans speak Spanish, the foods are commonly called Spanish dishes.
When made properly, there is great merit in this class of foods and I have endeavored to select the very best recipes, and have revised them into correct proportions and practical methods of preparation.
Many of the dishes are very delicious and will be found of great value for luncheon, entries, and a zest to various menus, and especially useful to those who desire to cater to the public. Please note the classification of sauces and dressings which eliminates a repetition of the same sauce in different dishes.
Wishing you as much pleasure in the preparation and serving of this collection of recipes as I have had in compiling them, I am,
Very sincerely yours, BERTHA HAFFNER-GINGER.
THE MISSION OF THE OLD PADRES WAS TO MAKE LIFE BRIGHTER FOR SUCH AS THESE
REGULAR SPANISH DINNER
Including Table Claret
CARNE CON CHILI
FRUIT AND COFFEE
Special Spanish Dinner $1.50 per plate
A CALIFORNIA "RAMADA" CAFE
Casa Verdugo Cafe, Los Angeles
"Ensaladas Espanol" (Spanish salads)
Prepared Vinegar for Spanish Salad Dressing
Put a button of garlic, large slice cucumber, slice onion, tablespoon parsley, tablespoon taragon leaves, or two tablespoons taragon vinegar into one pint cider vinegar. Bottle and let stand several days, strain and keep for following salads and dressings.
Especially Prepared Dressings
Spanish Dressing No. 1
Rub mixing bowl with button of garlic, break into bowl one egg yolk, whip stiff, add one-fourth cup best olive oil slowly, then one-fourth cup lemon juice, tablespoon prepared vinegar, teaspoon sugar, half teaspoon salt, tablespoon green chile pulp. Very fine.
Spanish Dressing No. 2
Six tablespoons of best olive oil in bowl, add gradually three tablespoons lemon juice and one of prepared vinegar, one teaspoon brown sugar, half teaspoon salt, tablespoon red chile pulp, stir with rotary motion until a thick cream, serve at once on salad.
Spanish Salad Dressing No. 3
Lemon or lime juice. Six tablespoons to three of olive oil, teaspoon sugar, one-half teaspoon salt, dash red pepper, teaspoon onion juice.
Spanish Salad, Avacado (Aligator Pear)
Peel and cut in half pears, sprinkle with salt and sugar twenty minutes before using, then place in heart of small crisp lettuce head, pour over Spanish dressing No. 3.
Tomato and Cucumber Salad
Select six fine ripe tomatoes; remove the hearts carefully; place on ice until chilled; pare two cucumbers and chop them finely; mix with tomato pulp; pour over a half cup of dressing No. 3 and fill the tomatoes. Serve on lettuce leaves and decorate with thinly sliced sweet peppers.
Spanish Sweet Pepper Salad
Remove seed and fill half peppers with chopped cucumber and celery, mixed with dressing No. 3, garnish with pimiento or beets, serve on lettuce.
Spanish Bean Salad
One cup Spanish beans cooked tender, small pink (canned red kidney beans will do); chop sweet green pepper, one-fourth cup, tablespoon each of onion, ripe sweet pepper, parsley and cucumber, mix with beans, serve with Spanish dressing No. 1.
Spanish Tomato and Egg Salad
Peel smooth just ripe tomatoes, slice in three slices across, place on lettuce leaf, put border around of hard boiled whites of eggs, stand hard boiled yolk in center, pour over Spanish dressing No. 1.
Stuffed Tomato Salad
Scald and peel large tomatoes, remove center, mix with equal parts celery, green chile, onions, fry in little olive oil and lemon juice, salt to taste, fill tomatoes, teaspoon Spanish dressing No. 1, sprinkle little chopped parsley and grated cheese, set on ice, serve on lettuce.
Spanish California Ripe Olive Salad
Remove seed from ripe olives, fill with mixture of cottage cheese, pimiento, salt, paprika, parsley, press together, serve on lettuce leaf, cover with Spanish dressing No. 1.
Spanish Moulded Salad
Chop enough ripe tomatoes to fill a cup, half cup cucumber, one-fourth cup celery, one-fourth cup green sweet peppers, tablespoon onion, one-half teaspoon chile powder, salt to taste. Dissolve one tablespoon gelatine in one cup tomato juice, pour over above, mix and mould, when firm cut in squares, serve with Spanish sauce Nos. 1 or 2 in lettuce leaf.
Spanish Cucumber and Tomato Salad
Pare and chop fine one good-sized fresh cucumber. Shred sufficient cabbage to make one pint, throw in cold water for one hour; scald and peel one good sized tomato and chop fine. Remove the seeds from one large sweet pepper, chop and mix with the tomato. When ready to serve drain and dry the cabbage. Put into salad bowl a layer of cabbage, then a layer of cucumber, then a layer of tomato and a layer of pepper; sprinkle with a few drops of onion juice; then another layer of cabbage and continue until all the material is used. Serve with dressing No. 2.
Spanish Cabbage Salad
Two cups shredded cabbage red and white mixed, two tablespoons chopped roasted chestnuts, two of pecans, mix with dressing No. 2 and serve in lettuce cups.
A cup of boiled rice; four hard-boiled eggs, and one head of lettuce. Arrange on platter, alternate layers of rice, shredded lettuce leaves, slices of hard-boiled eggs and dressing No. 1. Over the top layer of dressing press the yolk of an egg through a sieve and garnish the edges with a layer of lettuce leaves and radish tulip. Chop cress and cabbage, equal parts, add few minced chives, add one-fourth cup cream to one-half cup salad dressing No. 3 and serve over salad.
OVEN IN PATIO, RAMONA'S MARRIAGE PLACE
OLD SPANISH KITCHEN IN CALIFORNIA
Sopa Espanol (Spanish Soups)
Sopa de Frijoles (Bean Soup)
Cook one pint pink beans in two quarts beef stock till tender. Add one cup chopped onions, two green, two ripe chiles (fresh or canned), one quart canned tomatoes, two tablespoons chopped parsley. Cook all thoroughly. Drop in Spanish meat balls and serve with Spanish cheese fingers.
Spanish Meat Balls
Grind soup beef very fine. Add one egg to one cup meat, salt, little onion juice, two tablespoons soaked bread, make into very small balls, roll in crumbs, fry, drop in soup just before serving and sprinkle each ball with finely chopped parsley and bits of pimiento for color effect.
Sopa de Papas (Potato Soup)
Add one cup mashed potatoes to one cup chicken, veal or beef stock, one cup milk, tablespoon butter, salt, one bay leaf, tablespoon flour to thicken, cook and strain, cut thinly sliced bread, round, the size of a nickle, butter and toast, make little pile grated yellow cheese on toast, top with red sweet pepper, pinch of chopped parsley on top. Serve hot.
Spanish Hot Vegetable Broth
Make broth of one cup cabbage, one cup carrots, one-half cup onions, one cup garlic, one-half cup turnips, one-half cup celery, one-fourth cup green pepper. Add one quart canned tomatoes, one quart clarified meat stock, cook thoroughly, strain, serve hot with spoonful well cooked rice in bowl. For vegetable soup leave all vegetables in.
Spanish Fish Chowder
Fry one-half cup salt pork cut into small cubes, one-half cup chopped onion to light brown, add tablespoon flour, then add two cups small pieces of white boneless fish meat, brown slightly, strain two cups hot milk, one cup prepared Spanish sauce, salt to taste, dash of paprika. Clams or oysters may be used, allowing only one minute for clams or oysters.
MEXICAN WOMAN MAKING TORTILLAS
Y. Y. Perez, Public Bakery, Sonora Town, Los Angeles. They refuse to make them any other way and take the same pleasure in making a perfectly thin and round tortilla that puffs up nicely while cooking, as you and I do in trying to make a beautiful loaf of bread. Truly the heart of women are the same the world over. Deep down, no matter what the environment, the desire is always there, to be "loaf givers."
Modern Way to Prepare Corn for Tortilla and Tamales
Put one gallon of shelled corn in enough water to cover; dissolve one-half cup lime in a little water and add to cover; boil fifteen or twenty minutes; remove from fire, pour off first water and add fresh cold water; rub with hand to remove husk. Rinse in another water and it is ready to grind. Don't wash too much or it will not be pasty enough to make tortilla.
Tortillas No. 2
Another way and liked best by some people: Add to the corn dough (masa) rounding tablespoon of lard to four cups dough, little salt.
Tortillas No. 3
Still another way: Corn meal and coarse flour half and half wet to stiff dough, salt and lard.
Tortillas No. 4
But the best to my taste is the hominy or corn ground into a smooth paste, three cups corn, one of flour, two tablespoons melted lard, teaspoon salt, cook on ungreased iron, have ready enough hot salted lard to dip tortilla in just before you add filling to make Enchiladas. When flour is used, dough may be rolled out on a board, a small pie tin placed on and cut round the edge to form cake; lift up with pancake turner.
How to Shape Tortillas
Take piece of dough size of biscuit and press with hand into cake size of small pie plate, toast on top of stove moderately warm. Do not brown.
A PLATE OF TORTILLA
Made by putting chopped cooked beef and chile sauce in tortilla made of meal and flour; folded, edges sealed together with egg; fried in deep fat, chile sauce served over it.
INDIAN WOMAN BAKING BREAD
A PUBLIC BAKERY IN MEXICO
Women Making Tortilla
Enchiladas, No. 1 (Very fine)
Make Tortilla. Chop one cup onions very fine, slice and chop one-half cup olives, cook in little lard; have cup grated cheese ready, dip tortilla in hot salted lard, dip in chile sauce No. 1, spread with grated cheese, put in center tablespoonful of cooked onions, tablespoon chopped hard-boiled eggs, two tablespoons chopped chicken, six seedless raisins soaked in claret, level tablespoon chopped olives, a sprinkle of cheese and fourth cup Chile Sauce No. 1, fold both sides, one over the other, pour Chile Sauce No. 5 over all, put tablespoon cooked onion on center of top of each and several large pieces of cheese and three whole olives. Place in hot oven till cheese is melted, serve very hot.
Enchiladas No. 2
Use green chile sauce for Enchiladas No. 2, and filling of beef or veal, with onion or coddled or poached egg on top sprinkled with grated cheese, spoonful red chile sauce dropped in spots for color, heat till cheese melts.
Chile Pulp and Sauces for all Recipes
Chile peppers are the base of all Mexican and Spanish dishes, and I have simplified the various recipes by making a list of different ways to make the pepper pulps and sauces. Please note that they are numbered and named, referred to by number and name in the recipes. Original way to prepare chile for sauce is to remove seed and toast on coals, top of stove or in oven, till they puff and look tender; and mash through sieve or colander; add water or tomatoes for right consistency; scalding is the quickest.
No. 1, Red Chile Sauce, for Enchiladas or Tamales, etc.
Split red chile pepper, remove all seeds and veins, soak several hours in water, pour off, pour on boiling water, pour off and repeat again, the last water just enough to cover peppers when pressed down. Mash in this water and press through sieve, melt one-half cup pure lard, add heaping tablespoon flour, brown and add three cups of chile pulp, salt to taste, cook very slowly half hour.
No. 2, Green Chile Sauce for Enchiladas or Tamales, etc.
Split, remove seeds and veins from green chiles and boil in little hot water till tender; mash, press through sieve, melt one-fourth cup lard, add two tablespoons flour, teaspoon salt, brown just a little, add three cups green pulp, cook slowly half hour.
Prepared Spanish Sauce
Take equal parts red and green chile peppers, same amount green and red sweet peppers, split, remove seed from all, soak in water, drain, add enough water to barely cover, boil tender, mash in water, press through sieve, heat half cup olive oil, fry in it one-half cup onion, one-half parsley, three garlic buttons, tablespoon aregano, two cups raw tomatoes, six cloves, two cups of the pepper pulp, salt to taste, cook, strain, may heat and bottle larger quantities, very fine.
Pickles and Relishes
Heat quart apple vinegar, add tablespoon salt, twenty cloves, two tablespoons aregano, two of cominos, boil five minutes, let cool, pour over small red and green chiles, wild tamatillos (wild tomatoes) and put up in jars.
Green Chile Relish, No. 1
Remove seed and veins from twelve large green chiles, soak over night in water with little salt in it, chop and measure one quart green tomatoes, chop chiles, one cup cucumber, 1 garlic button, cook altogether until a pulp, press through sieve, add one-half cup lemon or lime juice, tablespoon salt. Fine over cold meats, fish, oysters, eggs, croquettes, roast pork, mix with apple sauce; serve on fried apple fritters.
Red Chile Relish, No. 2
Make same as green, substitute ripe tomatoes and red chiles. You may bottle, seal tightly each sauce; will keep indefinitely.
Chile Con Carne
Mexican Red Hot Chile Con Carne
To each cup of raw or cooked, chopped or ground beef, one-half cup lard or suet, add one cup pulp of red chile pepper, two cups beef stock, salt, cook until a thick sauce is formed, serve with frijoles.
Chicken Giblet Chile
Cook chicken jiblets livers and hearts tender in small amount water; chop and add equal amount chile sauce No. 1 or 2, salt to taste, serve on Spanish rice put in dish, sprinkle with parmasan cheese or Mexican grated cheese.
Chile Con Carne (Mild)
Two cups cooked chopped beef, one-half cup green chile pulp, one-half cup suet, tablespoon lard, one cup tomatoes, one button garlic, one-half cup chopped onion. Cook until thick, serve with frijoles.
Chile Con Carne
One-half cup chopped salt pork, one-half cup suet, add one-half cup chopped onion, one teaspoon aregano, one-half teaspoon safron, fry all together; add two cups cooked ground beef, two cups frijoles, two cups red chile pulp, one cup water or three cups water and four tablespoons chile powder, salt to taste and cook forty minutes.
Boil a fat chicken in small amount water with garlic button, or slice of onion to flavor. When tender chop the meat in small pieces, heat some of the chicken fat skimmed from the liquor and cut from chicken, add flour, bit of onion, add one cup green chile pulp, two cups of water chicken was boiled in, salt; add chopped chicken, stew few minutes, serve on Spanish rice.
Chile Con Carne
Cook beef, veal or chicken with parsley, carrots, celery, onions, bay leaf. Let it cook very slowly until tender, then cut meat into small pieces, strain the juice, add to every pint one-half cup chile pulp and one cup of cooked and mashed frijoles, add tablespoon butter or lard, then meat, and if too hot add cup tomatoes, cook few minutes longer.
Chop one pound of beef, pork or chicken, add a little chopped tallow or one tablespoonful of lard and a little salt; fry in a pan until tender; chop again very fine; return to pan; add a little warm water and pulp of two red chiles; stir and fry few minutes. Add to one quart of cornmeal two tablespoonfuls of salt, two tablespoonfuls of lard, and boiling water to make a thick dough. Cut off about one inch of corn husk stalk ends and soak in hot water ten minutes; dry and rub over with hot lard. Put a layer of dough on the husk about four inches long, one and one-half inches wide and one-fourth inch thick; along the center spread two teaspoonfuls of the prepared meat; roll and fold the small end of the husk; place them folded end down in a strainer over hot water. Cover and steam several hours. Serve hot.
Soak some trimmed corn husk (bought in Mexican stores) for several hours in cold water, then boil until soft, remove; dry on cloth, and rub with lard. Cut up a fat chicken, cook until very tender in just enough water to leave about four cups. Chop up cooked chicken, add corn meal or masa to boiling hot chicken broth until a thick dough; add salt to taste, one tablespoon chile powder, or chile sauce No. 1; add tablespoon of lard and knead all together until light and smooth. Now to all the chicken add enough chile sauce No. 1 to mix thickly together; add about one-fourth cup of sliced olives and a few whole ones and one-fourth cup seedless raisins, and a few whole ones, salt to taste and cook together for five minutes; spread corn dough evenly over shuck or husk about one-eighth inch thick. In center of one larger husk place a large kitchen spoonful of chicken; spread over this one tablespoonful of dough; place another husk spread with dough; continue placing husk around on all sides until about ten are used. Tie ends together with a strip of husk and place on end in a colander over boiling water for two or three hours, or place some corn husk in bottom of vessel, pile tamales on top, pour in about a quart of water, bring to a boil and steam slowly for three or four hours.
Make a crust of two cups of hot water, one-half cup lard, one teaspoon salt, and cornmeal to make thick dough. Spread on bottom and sides of pie tin. Mix beef, pork, veal or chicken with plenty of suet for shortening—any two of above meats will do—measure two cups of meat, add two tablespoons of cornmeal, one-half cup of chile pulp, one teaspoon salt, one-half cup meat stock or water. Cook for a few minutes, fill pie crust, spread more dough over top. Make little balls the size of marbles set around edge. Pour a little melted lard over the top, sprinkle with chile powder; bake about thirty minutes.
Ground beef fried in lard and suet, add chile sauce No. 2 and cook until thick. Prepare cornmeal or masa by pouring on boiling hot water, salt to taste, add one cup of lard to four cups meal or masa, add few olives and raisins if desired. Prepare as for chicken tamale recipe. Steam. Texas tamales made as above with olives and raisins left out and spoonful put in one long shuck, fold ends over and press flat.
Corn Husk and Red Chile
There are firms in California putting up a specially prepared corn meal for tortillas. There are chile powders and canned red and green hot chile peppers; also the red sweet pepper, called pimiento, which makes it possible to cook Spanish dishes anywhere.
Eggs Espanol (Eggs Cooked Spanish)
Spanish Omelet (Supreme)
A complete lesson—Fry a strip of bacon for each diner; remove from fat and keep hot. Cook until tender, in the fat, one tablespoon minced onion and sliver of garlic button (young green onion is best), one tablespoon minced green sweet pepper, same of canned sweet red pepper (pimiento), one tablespoon parsley, four sliced ripe olives, four seedless raisins, six mushrooms. Add when done, level teaspoon flour, then add one cup tomato—raw or canned; cook few minutes, salt to taste, add one teaspoon chile powder or two tablespoons red chile sauce. Use the above amount for every two eggs. Keep hot and prepare eggs by breaking in separate bowl whites and yolk; beat yolk first very stiff till light in color, add tablespoon water to each yolk and one-eighth teaspoon salt. Beat whites stiff, add small pinch cream tartar while whipping. Fold three-fourths of the whites into the yolks—do not break up too fine. Have hot omelet pan bottom covered well with lard or butter; pour in
eggs; lower fire and cook slowly, lifting up with spatula at different places to let raw egg to bottom. When nearly done, set under gas broiler or in very hot oven for a few minutes until seared. Remove, and with spoon, put prepared filling on one-half of omelet, fold other half over, turn out on a hot platter. Put rest of whipped whites on top to form a circular crown around edge. Sprinkle with salt and bits of butter; set back in oven and brown but not too deeply. Remove; decorate with bits or strips of pimiento, sliced olives, parsley, and last, the strips of bacon and triangles of toast. A simple way, not so pretty and fluffy, but good, is to mix the filling with whipped eggs; cook, fold and serve hot.
Spanish Stuffed Tomato Omelet
Soak one cup bread crumbs in one-half cup boiling milk, add tablespoon butter, salt, pepper, teaspoon onion juice. Remove centers from peeled tomatoes, stuff with bread mixture, place in a serving platter, bake until tender. Whip one egg for each tomato separately. Add tablespoon water to each yolk, salt, chile pepper, teaspoon butter for each egg. Pour around tomatoes to come to top. Bake in moderate oven. Serve hot, or partly fill tomato with bread mixture, break egg on top, sprinkle with cheese and bake. Cut tomatoes out in squares to get all the egg, and serve on lettuce.
Eggs in Chile Blankets
Roll a long piece of cheese in strips of chile peppers roasted, peeled and seeded, fry in hot lard and serve with prepared Spanish sauce on toast.
Spanish Sausage Omelet
Mix level tablespoon fine sausage, tablespoon bread crumbs in tablespoon milk for each egg, whip yolks of as many eggs as needed, little parsley, salt and teaspoon red pepper pulp, or chile powder; add white of egg and pour into hot greased pan; cook slowly, until done. Fold and turn out, cover with Spanish sauce. Garnish with lettuce or parsley.