On the way to Swinsty, by the bye, a ruinous house is passed on the
right about midway between there and Otley. It is of no great
architectural interest, but is singular in construction, having a
projecting turret containing a spiral staircase at the back, which
presumably was the only entrance. It is lofty, and has square
windows with a bay in the centre, but it is now only a shell. Mr.
Ingram in his Haunted Homes relates that Dob Park Lodge, as the place is called, is reputed to be haunted by a huge black dog who has
the power of speech, and is said to watch over a hidden treasure in
the vaults, like the dog with saucer eyes in Hans Andersen. The
entrance to these is locally supposed to be somewhere at the foot of
the winding stair, and so far only one person has ventured to explore
the depths; but when he did, he actually saw a great chest of gold!—
but then we must take into account that he was very drunk. Fewston
village, not far from Swinsty, is picturesquely situated on a knoll
above the lake or reservoir; but the church, mostly of William III.'s
time, has nothing of interest save a few stalls and a pretty little font cover. The wooden spiked altar rails might almost be the palings of a
suburban garden, whilst the crude
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square panes of red and blue of the chancel windows should be
anywhere but in a church.
To the north-east is "Catch'em Corner"; but it is uncertain what is to be caught except a chill, for the position is very bleak. Striking
northwards we get into the delightful Nidd valley. To the right lies
Ripley, famous for the rood screen, the ancient glass, and Edwardian
tomb of the Ingilbys of the castle, which Tudor structure surrendered
to the Parliament a day or so before Marston Moor was fought. Here
Cromwell is said to have sat up all night before the battle, hob-a-nob
with his unwilling hostess.
Going northwards from Fewston, the prettiest part of the road to
Pateley is struck near the village of Dacre. The romantic rocks and
glens hereabouts are famous, and much frequented by tourists,
consequently sixpences and threepences have to be frequently
disbursed. The price is cheap enough, but the romance is spoiled.
Hack Fall, near Masham, to the north-east, is as lovely a spot as one
could wish to see, but there are too many signs of civilisation about. It
is like taming a lion. The guide-book tells you to go along until you get
to a "refreshment house," which almost reads like an advertisement in disguise.
There is a sculptured Saxon cross in Masham churchyard, and the
church contains a fine monument to the Wyvells of Burton Constab
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le manor, an old house near Finghall, to the north-west, where
members of the family are also buried. The famous Jervaulx Abbey
ruins nestle in a hollow on the right of the road to Middleham. When
close upon it we asked the way of a yokel, but he shook his head;
and then it dawned upon him what we meant: "It's Jarvey ye warnt,"
he said, and pointed straight ahead. Scott's worthy, Prior Aylmer,
would surely beam with joy at the tender care bestowed upon the
remains of the establishment over which he once presided; and the
park might grace the finest modern dwelling, judging by the well-kept
lawns and walks; but all this trimness looks less natural to a ruin than
the more rustic surroundings of Easby, for example. The remains of
the Cistercian monastery are rather fragmentary, consisting mainly of
some graceful octagonal pillars and a row of lofty lancet windows in
the wall of the refectory, and some round-headed arches of the
chapter-house. It was destroyed in 1539, and the beautiful screen of
the church carried off to Aysgarth, where it may now be seen.
Continuing along the road to Middleham, Danby Hall, the ancient seat
of the Scropes, is seen in the distance on the right; but the river
intervenes, and one has to go beyond East Witton before a crossing
can
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be obtained. This village, built on either side of a wide green, has
nothing out of the common except its Maypole and its very
conspicuous Blue Lion rampant. A blue lion is a little change after the
hackneyed red, and the beast looks proud of his originality. Witton
probably was much prettier before the jubilee celebration of George
III.'s reign, when the old church and most of the old houses were
pulled down.
By the old grey bridge (with the pillar of a sundial in the centre, dated
1674) the Cover and Yore Rivers join hands with not a little fuss, like
the enthusiasm of a new-made friendship. The road to Danby Hall
runs level with the river then branches to the left. The mansion is
Elizabethan; but the stone balustrade was added in the middle of the
seventeenth century, and the small cupola-crowned towers were
added subsequently. The oldest part is a square tower to the north-
east, where, in the time of religious persecution, there was a small
oratory or chapel for secret services. In the heraldic glass of the
windows the ancient family of Scrope may be traced from Lord
Scrope who fought at Flodden up to the present day, and their history
may be followed by the portraits of the various generations on the
walls. A curious discovery was made here in the early part of the last
century. One of the chimneys in a stack of four could not be
accounted for, and a plummet of lead was dropped down each of
them, three of which found an outlet but the fourth cou
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ld not be found. To get at the bottom of the mystery, a not too bulky
party was lowered down, and he found himself in a small chamber full
of long cut-and-thrust swords, flintlock pistols, and the ancient
saddlery of untanned leather for a troop of fifty horse. Not much value
was set upon such things in those days, so the harness was put to
good account and utilised for cart-horse gear upon the farm. But the
dispersal of the ancient weapons has a history too, for at the time that
England was trembling with the fear of an invasion from the dreaded
"Boney," a cottage caught light one night on one of the surrounding hills; and this being taken as a signal of alarm, the beacon on top of
Penhill was fired. The terror-stricken villagers rushed everywhere for
weapons, but none could be provided, and the good squire of Danby
speedily distributed the secret store which had been hidden in the
house for the Jacobite insurrection of 1715. In time the yokels
returned, and there was a week's rejoicing and merry-making that the
blazing beacon after all had only proved a flash in the pan. The
pistols and swords, however, were not returned save one, which may
still be seen with the armourer's marks on the blade, "Shotley" on one
side and "Bridge"
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on the other.[32] Another has found its way into the little museum at Bolton Castle. In demolishing a cottage at Middleham it was
discovered up in the thatch roof, where it was put, perhaps, pending
another alarm. The hiding-place was converted into a butler's room
by Major Scrope's grandfather.
Among the portraits are some good Lelys, including two of Sir Carr
Scrope who was so enamoured of the Court physician's daughter.[33]
Another Lely of a handsome girl is said to represent one of the
Royalist Stricklands of Sizergh. Above the black oak staircase of
James I.'s time hangs a rare portrait of Mary of Modena; for one
seldom sees her when the beauty of youth had departed, for naturally
she did not like to be handed thus down to posterity. The queen looks
sour here, which tallies with the accounts we have of her in later life;
but truly she had cause enough to make her sour.