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How to Convert Your Post Lantern Gaslight to Electric
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1-House wire to Eye wire.
1-Head wire to Eye wire.
1-Head wire to House wire.
Remove the glass from the lamp head. There should be a set screw at the base. If it doesn‘t
turn, push up at the bottom of cage and force head off the pole. Use both palms in a
synchronous bumping straight up method.
Do this on each side of the head.
Use an up and down method for smooth paint lines on the pole. Be sure to use the original
color. When reinstalling the glass, some heads use a glass clip. Bend a paper clip or piece of
wire braid to fit around the hold down screws.
Disconnect the gas line at the flair fitting and plug it off or locate gas light supply line and
cap after the valve, if there is one. Use a 3/8 or a 1/2 inch flair fitting. If unsure which to use
check first. If unsure how to do this, consult a licensed plumber or consult your local Gas
Now it’s time to install the wiring system to the house. Start at the pole and work towards
the power supply. Now calculate the optimum path for the wire to go, taking into
consideration barriers. Map out the job like a professional. If the front door is in the middle,
and the sidewalk extends to the drive then go to the side that has no sidewalk. Look along the
top of the foundation wall in the basement for a good wire entrance location, on that side of
the porch. Use the water faucet as a good location finder. If you have no basement, you will
have to run wire through the crawl space to garage or straight up through the floor to an
existing outlet. If it’s a split-foyer home, many consumers have run into demise by running the
wire improperly. Never drill through a foundation! It will crack. About the only way to drill
into a split foyer home is to go to the lowest level through the window frame or the finished
garage. This is tough because you have to tack a wire from the front of the garage to the back
outlet or go to the ceiling fixture and install a pull chain socket. Such homes always have
sidewalks, or a concrete drive is connected to the porch, which means about fifteen feet of
concrete molloys exposed. You could go up the wall to the second floor, into an outlet there.
Either way it doesn’t look very attractive. The trick is to hide wire. Impress yourself!
(Remember we suggest hiring a professional for split foyer homes.)
Remove gas fixture inside lamp head. Two pair of pliers should do the job nicely. Steel
lamp-heads may take a bit of persuasion in freeing the center for the Charm-Lite, however, a
chisel and hammer, or drill can be used. In rare cases a new lamp head is necessary.
Once you’ve disconnected the gas line, and removed gas burning components, paint interior
and exterior of lamp-head using average spray enamel. Eagles on lamp-heads are painted gold.
Drill a 3/8-inch hole in the pole, 4 inches down from top of pole, or approximately 1/2 inch
below the lamp head seat line. Aim it away from major light sources – North if possible.
Drill or chisel another hole just below the dirt line. Make sure the bottom hole is rounded
out nicely for slipping wire through. Make certain not to accidentally nick the gas line. If
supply line has been capped off at meter, it’s already shut off!
Stretch the wire from the house to pole. Drop the string down the pole to bottom opening
and retrieve through opening with piece of wire or paper clip. Attach wire by lifting and
pushing until wire extends about six inches out top of pole. Fold over to keep it from falling.
Begin burying wire by slicing ground at a 45-degree angle, breaking down and then
pushing up, causing a tilted "V" gap. The wire doesn‘t have to go to China. The voltage is
only 24V. The transformer has a fused secondary, in case of a short. About 6 inches deep is all
that’s necessary. Push the wire in with a dandelion digger at an angle, in order to stretch out
any slack and keep wire from creeping out. This will take some getting used to, so take your
time. Once reaching a point where going under something is necessary, do it now, and then
continue until reaching entrance point of home. Cut off a piece of conduit and run wire
through it. Cut the wire now. Give enough slack to splice the basement wire and the outside
wire without standing on a ladder. Shove wire through hole and seal with caulk.
Consumers may have a clear shot to the hole made for the eye, if the "Slide in Post mount"
(the one with a foam block holding it in the pole) was purchased. If so, consumers will only
need to compress the foam, slide it down to match the eye, with the drilled hole. If you bought
the threaded mount, with the wire extension, remove the cap and one nut, lower the
photoelectric eye into the pole with a pair of pliers. Push the end through the hole made
earlier, at the top of pole, and screw the nut; place cap on end.
By now the lamp-head is dry and ready for the bulb tree. Place the bulb tree inside the
lamp-head, with one flat nut and one washer assembled onto all thread. Guide it through the
center hole in the head. Place the other washer and nut on the end of the all thread and tighten
down. Make sure it’s centered in the head.
Splice into the basement wire and staple to the rafters. Just remember to take a look at the
example left by the phone, cable or existing electrical wiring. Don‘t run staples too close to
110V wires, and if you can, try to hide them as much as possible. Go to the nearest outlet for
hooking up the transformer. Make sure it’s not on the basement switch at the top of the stairs.
If you have an outlet in an enclosed wall you can fish the wire behind the wall, assuming the
ceiling tiles are removable. Go around the outlet box and fish up. Attach the wire and pull
If you have an unusually tall lamp head make the stem of the bulb tree longer. Modification of
the bulb tree is easy if you used CPVC as a conduit. Cut a portion of it to desired length. Drill
out one end about 1/2 inch deep with the ½-inch drill bit. Screw in threaded piece from the
original stem – about half way. Push wires in the new stem and slip the bulb socket onto end.
Paint plastic stems gold or desired color.
If you are unfortunate enough to have an enclosed ceiling then you have to be tricky about
where you come in with the wire. Most of the time there will be a water meter at the front wall
and assuming there is it will also be enclosed. If you look up inside this you will have a little
space to come in. BE ACCURATE as to where you come in, there is sometimes only the
width of a rafter in which to do so. Remember the water faucet? It is usually right there!
MAKE SURE with a visual check. If not, then whip out the tape measure. Don‘t forget the
width of the wall when measuring the outside, which is usually about 10 inches. Then run the
wire down to the baseboard. Like an extension cord go to the nearest outlet. An alternate
method is to go in through the utility room rafter with your fish-tape, and literally hook the
wire by attaching a wire clothes hanger to your fish tape and reel it into the utility room.
Most poles have two slots cut in the top. This makes it handy for wiring. Place the head on
top of the pole and stick all wires out one of the slots. Wire accordingly.
House wire = One of Two wires ran from Transformer in the house
Head wire= One of Two wires from Bulb Tree in Lamp Head
Eye wire= One of Two wires from Dusk-To-Dawn Control mounted in Post.