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2023


4ᅠ
wasᅠ meticulouslyᅠ createdᅠ atᅠ theᅠ Sanᅠ Juanᅠ surfboardᅠ factoryᅠ aboutᅠ twelveᅠ
monthsᅠ before.ᅠ Inᅠ theᅠ bootᅠ wasᅠ aᅠ two‐manᅠ tent,ᅠ aᅠ Liloᅠ inflatableᅠ mattress,ᅠ aᅠ
sleepingᅠ bag,ᅠ groundᅠ sheets,ᅠ aᅠ boxᅠ ofᅠ cookingᅠ utensils,ᅠ clothesᅠandᅠaᅠboxᅠofᅠ
food.ᅠBehindᅠ theᅠwheel,ᅠalone,ᅠwasᅠAdam,ᅠdrivingᅠ inᅠhisᅠbareᅠ feet,ᅠwearingᅠhisᅠ
favouriteᅠ pairᅠ ofᅠ fadedᅠ Levisᅠ andᅠ theᅠ Sanᅠ Juanᅠ T‐shirtᅠ thatᅠ hisᅠmates,ᅠtheᅠSanᅠ
Juanᅠboys,ᅠgaveᅠhimᅠtheᅠlastᅠtimeᅠheᅠwasᅠupᅠthere.ᅠ
ItᅠwasᅠmidᆳNovemberᅠ1968.ᅠTheᅠHoldenᅠ cruisedᅠdownᅠ theᅠnorth‐countryᅠ
roadᅠtowardsᅠByronᅠBay.ᅠAdamᅠwouldn’tᅠstayᅠthereᅠthough.ᅠHeᅠknewᅠofᅠaᅠmuchᅠ
betterᅠplace,ᅠaᅠplaceᅠ shownᅠ toᅠhimᅠbyᅠ theᅠSanᅠ Juanᅠboysᅠonᅠaᅠpreviousᅠ trip.ᅠ Itᅠ
wasᅠcalledᅠBrokenᅠHead,ᅠtoᅠhimᅠtheᅠplaceᅠwhereᅠtheᅠmostᅠperfectᅠwavesᅠbrokeᅠ
andᅠ toᅠ thisᅠ dayᅠ heᅠ isᅠ unsureᅠ whetherᅠ theᅠ surfᅠ sessionsᅠ heᅠ hadᅠ there,ᅠ inᅠ hisᅠ
youth,ᅠwereᅠtheᅠveryᅠbestᅠheᅠeverᅠhadᅠinᅠhisᅠlife.ᅠ
Backᅠ inᅠ ’68,ᅠBrokenᅠHeadᅠwasᅠ stillᅠ aᅠwell‐keptᅠsecret.ᅠTravellingᅠsurfers,ᅠ
inᅠthoseᅠdays,ᅠheadedᅠstraightᅠforᅠByronᅠtoᅠsurfᅠtheᅠPassᅠorᅠWategos.ᅠOnᅠaᅠgoodᅠ
dayᅠwithᅠaᅠsolidᅠeight‐footᅠswellᅠthereᅠmightᅠhaveᅠbeenᅠ fiftyᅠsurfersᅠoutᅠatᅠtheᅠ
Pass.ᅠJustᅠfiveᅠmilesᅠtoᅠtheᅠsouth,ᅠinᅠwavesᅠsoᅠhollowᅠthatᅠtheirᅠcurlᅠlandedᅠwayᅠ
outᅠ onᅠ theᅠ flatᅠ andᅠ peeledᅠ absolutelyᅠ mechanically,ᅠthere’dᅠ beᅠ nobodyᅠ out,ᅠ
exceptᅠmaybeᅠforᅠtheᅠfewᅠwhoᅠhappenedᅠtoᅠbeᅠprivyᅠtoᅠtheᅠsecret.ᅠ
Inᅠ thoseᅠ days,ᅠ allᅠ thereᅠwasᅠ atᅠBrokenᅠwasᅠ aᅠ smallᅠ campingᅠ area.ᅠ Itᅠwasᅠ
nestledᅠinᅠaᅠclearing,ᅠinᅠaᅠtinyᅠvalley,ᅠwhichᅠwasᅠsurroundedᅠbyᅠgreenᅠhillsᅠthatᅠ
wereᅠcoveredᅠbyᅠlushᅠsubtropicalᅠvegetation.ᅠThereᅠwasᅠaᅠsmallᅠkioskᅠthere,ᅠsoᅠ
oneᅠdidn’tᅠhaveᅠtoᅠdriveᅠtoᅠByronᅠforᅠtheᅠbasics,ᅠandᅠthereᅠwasᅠaᅠshower,ᅠtoiletᅠ
andᅠ laundryᅠ thereᅠ asᅠ well,ᅠ forᅠ theᅠ campers.ᅠ Andᅠ there,ᅠ rightᅠ there,ᅠ notᅠ moreᅠ
thanᅠaᅠfewᅠhundredᅠyardsᅠaway,ᅠwereᅠwavesᅠfromᅠheaven.ᅠ
Aᅠ narrowᅠ dirtᅠ roadᅠ wasᅠ theᅠ onlyᅠ accessᅠ intoᅠ Broken.ᅠ Itᅠ wasᅠ aboutᅠ twoᅠ
kilometresᅠ longᅠ andᅠ thereᅠ mightᅠ haveᅠ onlyᅠ beenᅠ threeᅠ orᅠ fourᅠ smallᅠ shacksᅠ
hiddenᅠinᅠtheᅠbushᅠalongᅠtheᅠway.ᅠOtherwise,ᅠBrokenᅠHeadᅠwasᅠsurroundedᅠbyᅠ
aᅠseaᅠofᅠnaturalᅠwilderness.ᅠ
Adamᅠparkedᅠhisᅠcarᅠ inᅠ town.ᅠAfterᅠpayingᅠhisᅠ friendsᅠatᅠ theᅠ surfᅠ shopᅠaᅠ
visit,ᅠheᅠstoppedᅠatᅠtheᅠpostᅠofficeᅠwhereᅠheᅠphonedᅠhisᅠparentsᅠandᅠtoldᅠthemᅠ
ofᅠhisᅠ safeᅠarrival.ᅠHeᅠalsoᅠ thankedᅠ them,ᅠagain,ᅠ forᅠ theᅠuseᅠofᅠ theᅠ carᅠandᅠ theᅠ
moneyᅠtheyᅠgaveᅠhimᅠtoᅠliveᅠon.ᅠ
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